The Million Dollar Laptop

UK-based bespoke luxury goods creator Luvaglio has created the first million dollar laptop. That's what the first of their luxury laptops will sell for. Full details of the laptop have not been released at this point, but it is known that it incorporates a 17" wide LED lit screen with a specially designed anti-reflective glare coating for clear and brighter image, 128GB of Solid State Disk space and a slot loading Blue-Ray drive. There is an integrated screen cleaning device and a very rare coloured diamond piece of jewellery that doubles up as the power button when placed into the laptop, and also acts as security identification.

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XE-BIO - Latest Technology

Non Contact In-liquid Imaging and Ion Conductance Microscopy
XE-Bio is a powerful 3-in-1 nanoscience research tool that uniquely combines industry’s only True Non-Contact AFM with Ion Conductance Microscopy (ICM) and inverted optical microscope on the same platform. The modular design of the XE-Bio allows easy exchange between non-contact AFM and ICM. Designed for non-invasive in-liquid imaging, the combined imaging capability of AFM, ICM, and inverted optical microscopy makes the XE-Bio ideal for imaging biological samples, such as living cells, in dynamic conditions. Moreover, ICM can be adapted to enable a host of powerful applications in nanoscale electrophysiology.
Powerful 3-in-1 Nanoscale Research Tool with Modular Platform

-> True Non-Contact Atomic Force Microscope (AFM)

->Ion Conductance Microscope (ICM)

-> Inverted Optical Microscope

Ultimate AFM Resolution by True Non-Contact ModeTM

-> 10 times larger Z-scan bandwidth than a piezotube

-> Less tip wear for prolonged high-quality and high-resolution imaging

-> Minimized sample damage or modification

-> Immunity from parameter-dependent results observed in tapping imaging

-> Single molecule Force-Distance spectroscopy with automated data analysis

Non-invasive In-liquid Imaging by ICM

-> Monitoring ion channels of single living cells

-> Unique functional capability of targeted localized stimulation

-> Enable nanoscale patch-clamping for electrophysiology

-> Environmental chamber for temperature, pH, and humidity control

Fully Integrated Inverted Optical Microscope

-> Compatible with phase contrast and DIC imaging

-> Also compatible with fluorescence microscopy

-> Advanced image overlay functions

Intel Latest Server Processor

Intel Xeon processor 7500 series

Designed for maximum performance and reliability, these massively scalable 2-way to 256-way, 64-bit multi-core servers are designed to provide exceptional scalable performance and mission-critical class reliability for your most data-demanding applications and virtualization projects.

THE MAIN FEATURE WHICH SHOW HOW ITS TOTALLY DIFFERENT THAN OTHERS

8-core processing
With Up to 8 cores and 16 threads per socket with Intel® Hyper-Threading Technology◊, the Intel Xeon processor 7500 series offers increased performance with 45nm manufacturing technology and increased headroom for multi-threaded applications and data demanding applications
Enables improved virtualization performance, increasing system utilization

Intel microarchitecture codename Nehalem
Boosts performance on multiple applications/user environments and data demanding workloads, while enabling denser data center deployments through improved performance-per-watt
45nm hi-k process technology enables larger on-die cache for better performance, and reduced transistor gate leakage for greater energy efficiency

24 MB of L3 cache
Increases efficiency of cache-to-core data transfers, maximizing main memory to processor bandwidth
Reduces latency by storing larger data sets closer to the processor, reducing the number of trips to main memory

Intel Quickpath Interconnect
High-speed (up to 25.6 GB/s), point-to-point connections between processors, and between processors and the I/O hub
Outstanding memory performance and flexibility to support leading memory technologies
Tightly integrated interconnect reliability, availability, and serviceability (RAS) with design-scalable configurations for optimal balance of price, performance, and energy efficiency
Enables scaling of processors from 2- to 8-sockets, and higher with use of third-party node controllers

Quad channel integrated memory controller and Intel 7500 Scalable Memory Buffer technology.
Intel Scalable Memory Interconnect results in 8 times the memory bandwidth of prior generations
Intel 7500 Scalable Memory Buffers are used to achieve the highest memory capacity per socket for an X86 architecture
Up to 16 memory slots per processor socket
Support for up to 16GB DDR3 DIMMs
Up to 1Terabyte of memory with 16GB DIMMS in a 4-socket system (up to 2 terabytes in an 8-socket system)

Mission Critical RAS (Reliability, Availability and Serviceability)
Over 20 new RAS features (3x vs. prior generation) designed to protect data integrity, increase system availability and minimize downtime.
Machine Check Architecture Recovery (MCA Recovery) allows the system to recover from otherwise fatal memory errors. First time in X86 architecture (previously only seen in RISC, Itanium-based systems, and mainframe class systems)
Other RAS features include Intel® Scalable Memory Interconnect (Intel® SMI) lane fail-over and Intel QuickPath Interconnect self-healing which enable the platform to identify problems and fail over to another lane or modify link operation to keep running

Intel Virtualization Technology (Intel VT)
A suite of processor hardware enhancements that assists virtualization software to deliver more efficient virtualization solutions and greater capabilities including 64-bit guest OS support
Intel Virtualization Technology FlexPriority optimizes virtualization software efficiency by improving interrupt handling
Intel Virtualization Technology FlexMigration enables Intel Xeon processor 7400 series-based systems to be added to the existing virtualization pool with single, two, or 4+ socket Intel Xeon processor-based servers

Intel 64 architecture
Flexibility for 64-bit and 32-bit applications and operating systems

Solar Powered Plane To Fly Non-Stop For A Day

Solar power plane which is first developed at Dec 2008 is now taken a new height. 7 July 2010 is the day in when the aircraft took off from swiss airbase in the early hours to make history by flying round the clock.

This should be the great day of all goes well as said by chief Bertrand Piccard, who made the first non-stop round the world flight in a balloon more than a decade ago.
Solar Impulse has become the first plane in the history of solar aviation to make the longest and highest flight reaching top speeds of 75 mph.The epic flight over the Swiss skies was fueled by solar energy harnessed by 12,000 solar cells covering the plane’s 208ft long wingspan, which powered four electric motors driving the wing mounted propellers. Solar-powered HB-SIA prototype airplane has four lithium-ion batteries to store solar energy during the day and has been built from super light-weight but extremely strong carbon fiber material. Cruising at a maximum speed of 75 mph the plane can reach maximum altitude of 39,000 ft.

According to the team co-founder Bertrand Piccard, “the first 24-hour test flight proves that the aircraft can collect enough energy from the sun during the day to stay aloft indefinitely”.While the team aims to fly around the world, for now they have proven that emissions free travel is definitely possible.

Germany v/s Argentina report

As of know all the world knows the result of GERMANY v/s ARGENTINA match at FIFA 2010 .
I m sharing some information about the match. The match which can shows its class in a different level , but failed to do so because of one team outclass other in the most humilated ways. Yes the team which shows its class is GERMANY no doubt . From start to the end its all about the statistics which the players play. Germany player use different strategy and win the game. What went wrong with the Argentina is the most common question asked by everyone. Well in my opinion the only thing wrong is that they are not using there all players to attack the germans, they only think of there star player to start the attack and due to this they lost most of there chances. For a team who has shown there class from the starting match shows this kind of game, this shows that there has no backup plan to counter the german defence. This shows lack of knowledge, information on other team. What went good for Germany is not just early goal but collabrated play by all players from the midfield to the attacker . Germany shows outplays Argentina from start till the end, not because they have good attack but its because they have much better defence. Germany defence shows class as we can see they not just let Argentina player to score a single goal but also plays better mind tactics too make opposition teeam to play offside. By this way they appear to be more smarter.
It's not that only germany play better football, Argentina also strike well starting from 2nd half, but couldn't achieve what they want and German star player BASTIAN SCHWEINSTEIGER plays fast counter to close the match. The counter attack starts from Bastian and KLOSE makes it look so easy for others to see the result. Below are the pics of the match the moment where argentinians looks astonished by the result.

Match stats show some amazing result. Argentina has the possesion of the ball by 54% overall and also havemore shots on goal than Germany. This shows that the argentinian never thought of loosing game till the end and played like the best team should play. They also made more corner to penetrate german defence but all fails till the end.

The result of the game is 4-0 as germany wins the game and the ticket to move on to semi final.

Germany {Mueller 3, Klose 68, 89, Friedrich 74} 4- Argentina 0

Scope of a Project

Executive Summary
JINA system is a hotel management system which not only has the basic
functions (check-in and check-out) commonly focuses in the traditional hotel
management system, but also has something different from the traditional hotel
management system.
In the traditional hotel management system, reservation is done by hotel,
therefore agents are used to send fax which include the guest’s name, room type,
check in and check-out dates to hotel for making a room booking, then agents must
wait until hotel send back a fax to confirm the booking. This will make the daily
work inefficiently.
In JINA hotel management system, similar to the traditional hotel management
system, it can handle the check in and check out. And the housekeeper can update the
room situation any time so that receptionist can search the available room for guests
easily. Besides this, housekeeper, cashier and laundry staff can also update the
various charges to the guests’ folio. But the selling points in JINA hotel management
system are reservation and web booking. In reservation, agents can do the
reservation themselves, they only use to send the booking information to the
database, so that they do not need to send the fax and wait for the confirmation all the
time. This not only makes their daily works to be done more smoothly, but also
reduce the use of paper-based documents. Web booking is a common way of booking
nowadays. In the JINA system, guests can use their e-mail and password to make
their own account. This account can let guests to see how many booking they had
made before, room rate on weekday, weekend and public holiday. Besides these
basic functions, guests can have some specific discount if they had made room
booking over specific times which depend on the hotel strategy.

Background
Winning Company is a traditional hotel, which has no any computer system to
handle the daily work. It has 10 floors with 100 rooms, besides these, it also has
health center, casino, sauna, nightclub, Chinese and European restaurant. There are
about 500 employees in the hotel, about 350 of them are housekeeping and waiters
and the rest are in the other departments: reception, reservation, accounting, personal
department, Food & Beverage department, sales department and the engineering
department. And the 150 of the employees will include the directors and managers.

Operation
For the reservation department, when they receive the fax or phone call from
agent, they can only mark down the booking by hand in the record book. And for the
reception department, when a guest come to check in, they can only check the record
book which pass from reservation to find whether the guest has made the booking or
not. When a guest wants to check out, receptionists need to sum up the room rental
with the 10% service charge and 5% tourism tax. Cashiers in Food & Beverage
Department and the staffs of the Laundry Department need take the guest bill to
Front Office all the time because they can’t transfer the total amount of the bill
through the computer. The housekeepers in Housekeeping Department, they can
only update the room situation by telling the receptionist using telephone. All these
working processes make the daily work inefficiency.

Problems
1. In the reception department, the booking records are often duplicated or lost.
2. If a walk in guest comes to check in, receptionists may just give him a room but
which may be already blocked or unclean.
3. A walk in guest’s name may be the same as the others; receptionists may
misunderstand that this guest has already made the booking and give him a room.
4. Because receptionists are used to check the booking records all the time, so it
will make the daily work inefficiently especially in the peak period.
5. After confirming the guest the booking, receptionists will search an available
room, but the room situation can not be always updated by housekeeper.
6. Receptionists will request all guests to pay the deposit when they check in; also
they will pay the deposit back to the guests when they check out. But they can’t
print a report to check whether the cash or credit cards on hand are correctly or
not.
7. When handling the check out process, if cashiers and laundry staff forget to take
the bill to the Front Office, receptionists are unable to check those miscellaneous
charges, so as to cause the loss.
8. Customers are difficult to get the hotel information at any time they want,
especially the overseas guests.
9. Managers need to send the memo about the update room rate to each
departments and agents all the time because they can’t update the rate by using
computer.

Functional Requirement
Counter
1. Check in
Arrival list:
• The receptionists check a table including the list of the customers who will
arrive on that day, if it had many booking on that day, supervisor need to
increase more staff to work on that day.
• Search: receptionists can search the guest booking by ID card number
• ID Check: Check whether the guest is an agent guest or walk in guest.
Room Assignment:
• Walk-in guest – before customer check in, receptionists need to check the
condition of the room.
• Check out all the available rooms.
• Room styles: type of room (single, double) and environment of room (good or
bad view).
• Customer information entry – receptionists need to record the information of
all guests.
• Check customer information: receptionists can use this function to check the
database, if any record matches the customer; receptionists can use this record
to enter directly.
• Creates customer profile: if no any record matches the customer, receptionists
can create a new customer profile.
• For who have made reservation, their names will be in the arrival list,
receptionists only need to check whether the room is clean or not, and then
assign an available room to the guest.
• Customer information entry – because already had the records of customers,
so staff only need to use the function of check customer information to
confirm customer information.
6 of 17
2. Check out
Departure list:
• Receptionists can check the list of departure on the current day, if it had many
check out guest on that day, supervisor need to increase more staff to work on
that day.
• Receptionists can search the guest folio for check out by using room number.
Room checking:
• When a guest requests to check out, housekeeper will check whether the room
has any damage or usage in the mini bar, if yes, housekeepers will update the
folio about extra charge and mark the room unavailable.
Payment receipt:
• After customer check out, receptionists will print a payment receipt about
room price to customer. (May include extra charge, e.g. charge of telephone,
laundry fee etc.)
Agent
Guest information maintenance:
• If a new guest comes to book a room; user can create a new customer profile.
• If the guest has his/her own customer profile that means this guest has made
room booking several times before, then users can retrieve the guest
information and continue make a new booking directly.
Registration:
• Users can see the quota.
• Users can enter the guest information, room type.
• Users can depend on the guest request to set booking type (one night, one
week, one month or package).
• After the guests confirm the booking, users can set the payment depend on the
guest.
Modification/ Cancellation:
• If a guest want to modify some details in their booking, or cancel the booking.
Users can load the booking from the system and do the modification or
cancellation.

Administrative Management
Pricing: Set up the price for different king of charge.
• Room price: Manager can consider different kind of room to set different
price.
• (Such as single, double … etc.)
• Room service price: Set up the price of different kind of room service.
• (Such as room Bread, extra bed … etc.)
• Deposit: Set up how much the customers need to pay for the deposit.
Modify the room price: Users can change the room for different case.
• Discount rate for agent: Modify the discount for agent.
• Discount rate for online reservation: Manager can make a discount for some
walk-in customers who reservation on Web
Get report: It can let the manager get different information of the hotel.
• Room chart: It can let the manager get the room properties in real time, so that
he can easily handle some extra booking in sudden.
• Statistics: Manager can accord some information to take a statistic. It can let
manager have more information to consider how to modify the price.
• (Such as the rate of live, which kind of room is the most famous… etc.)
Housekeeping Management
Update Information and Folio:
• Housekeepers can use this system to update the room situation for telling
receptionists which rooms are clean and update some extra charges to the
guest folio.
Web-Based Services
Check room information:
• Online checks room price, and room type etc.
Online reservation:
• With the room information, customer can press one button beside that
information to go to reservation page for reserve online, at that time; guests
can select check in date, check out date, number of room and number of
person etc.
Create & edit customer profile:
• A member profile is created for each of our guests so that our concierge can
serve you better. With your unique email address and password, you will be
able to review and update this at anytime.
• No need to re-enter your personal information every time you book the room.
• When customer login, he/she can view, modify or cancel a reservation.

Funny Things

Sometimes we must be Hurt in order to Grow,

Sometimes we must Fail, in order to Know,

Sometimes we must Lose, in order to Gain

Because some lessons in life - are best learned through Pain.

DEADLY THINKING OF A STUDENT

A father passing by his Son's bedroom was astonished to see the bed was nicely made and everything was picked up. Then he saw an envelope propped up prominently on the center of the bed. It was addressed to "Dad" With the worst premonition, he opened the envelope and read the letter with trembling hands:
Dear Dad,
It is with great regret and sorrow that I'm writing you.I had to elope with my new girlfriend because I wanted to avoid a scene with mom and you. I've been finding real passion with Joan and she is so nice-even with all her piercing's, tattoo's, and her tight Motorcycle clothes.
But it's not only the passion dad, she's pregnant and Joan said that we will be very happy. Even though you don't care for her as she is so much older than I ,she already owns a trailer in the woods and has a stack of firewood for the whole winter.She wants to have many more children with me and that's now one of my dreams too.
Joan taught me that marijuana doesn't really hurt anyone and we'll be growing it for us and trading it with her friends for all the cocaine and ecstasy we want.In the meantime, we'll pray that science will find a cure for AIDS so Joan can get better; she sure deserves it!!
Don't worry Dad, I'm 15 years old now and I know how to take care of myself.
Someday I'm sure we'll be back to visit so you can get to know your grandchildren.

Your son,Justin

PS: Dad, none of the above is true. I'm over at the neighbor's house. I just wanted to remind you that there are worse things in life than my report card that's in my desk center drawer.
I love you!
Call when it is safe for me to come home!!

Difference Between Boys And Girls

How a BOY withdraws cash from ATM

1. Park the car

2. Go to ATM Machine

3. Insert card

4. Enter PIN

5. Take money out

6. Take ATM Card out


7. Drive away

How a GIRL withdraws cash from ATM

1. Park the car


2. Check makeup

3. Turn off engine

4. Check makeup

5. Go to ATM

6. Hunt for ATM card in the purse

7. Insert card

8. Hit Cancel

9. Hunt in purse for chit with PIN written on it

10. Insert card

11. Enter PIN


12. Take cash

13. Go to car

14. Check makeup

15. Start car

16. Stop car

17. Run back to ATM

18. Take ATM card

19. Back to car

20. Check makeup

21. Start car

22. Check makeup

23. Drive for 1/2 mile

24. Release handbrake

25. Drive on.

How to Boot Windows XP/Vista From PEN DRIVE

How to boot Windows XP/Vista from pen drive

In this tutorial I m gonna show u how we can boot from pen drive.

For this we need a software. The links of the software is posted below:-
http://rapidshare.com/files/388031435/warez2007Bootable_USB.rar

Download the above link .
Password is warez2007 (Please do not copy paste . just type it , its not too big also)

After that extract it using the password.

Now we are half done .
Open the folder which suited you.
For me its folder OPTION - 1 for XP
Now after that install winsetupfromusb_0.2.3.
In this folder you can see the instruction .
Follow the instruction and we can achieve bootable pen drive.

I m posting the instruction here also
Instruction.( for Option 1 )

!!!!Set Up Intallation!!!
Note:
*If Required To format with HP Formatter use USB formatter and Donot Bypass the Instruction.
Note: When Formatting Choose NTFS ( this is the Most Important!

1.Install WinSetupFromUSB_0-2-3
2.Follow the Instruction
3.Browse the Source XP cd
4.Click GO. ( note: when making bootable USB! dONT Press or check anything just GO only )
5.Wait until System Process Finished.

*******Before Installation******

!!!!After Finished!!!!
1. Exit the USB.
2. Safety ReMoved!

******Final Installation for Setup*****

!!!Installation to your Netbook/Laptop/Desktop!!!

1. Insert to your Laptop or NetBook USB HUB!
2. In the BOOT SCREEN! bott from CD/DVD?USB. drive
3. Press Enter
***** the Screen will boot Dont Press anything let the program Run for Installation!!!
4. You will see that the System Prompt installing The PART - 1

Let System Continue and Donot Press Any KEY. until its. Finished!!

Enjoy.....

Just put comment if u have any problem .
Say thanx for the post.

THE HISTORY OF ESS

Of all the new 1960s wonders of telephone technology -
satellites, ultra modern Traffic Service Positions (TSPS) for
operators, the picturephone, and so on - the one that gave Bell
Labs the most trouble, and unexpectedly became the greatest
development effort in Bell System's history, was the perfection
of an electronic switching system, or ESS.
It may be recalled that such a system was the specific end in
view when the project that had culminated in the invention of the
transistor had been launched back in the 1930s. After successful
accomplishment of that planned miracle in 1947-48, further delays
were brought about by financial stringency and the need for
further development of the transistor itself. In the early 1950s,
a Labs team began serious work on electronic switching. As early
as 1955, Western Electric became involved when five engineers
from the Hawthorne works were assigned to collaborate with the
Labs on the project. The president of AT&T in 1956, wrote
confidently, "At Bell Labs, development of the new electronic
switching system is going full speed ahead. We are sure this will
lead to many improvements in service and also to greater
efficiency. The first service trial will start in Morris, Ill.,
in 1959." Shortly thereafter, Kappel said that the cost of the
whole project would probably be $45 million.
But it gradually became apparent that the developement of a
commercially usable electronic switching system - in effect, a
computerized telephone exchange - presented vastly greater
technical problems than had been anticipated, and that,
accordingly, Bell Labs had vastly underestimated both the time
and the investment needed to do the job. The year 1959 passed
without the promised first trial at Morris, Illinois; it was
finally made in November 1960, and quickly showed how much more
work remained to be done. As time dragged on and costs mounted,
there was a concern at AT&T and something approaching panic at
Bell Labs. But the project had to go forward; by this time the
investment was too great to be sacrificed, and in any case,
forward projections of increased demand for telephone service
indicated that within a phew years a time would come when,
without the quantum leap in speed and flexibility that electronic
switching would provide, the national network would be unable to
meet the demand. In November 1963, an all-electronic switching
system went into use at the Brown Engineering Company at Cocoa
Beach, Florida. But this was a small installation, essentially
another test installation, serving only a single company.
Kappel's tone on the subject in the 1964 annual report was, for
him, an almost apologetic: "Electronic switching equipment must
be manufactured in volume to unprecedented standards of
reliability.... To turn out the equipment economically and with
good speed, mass production methods must be developed; but, at
the same time, there can be no loss of precision..." Another year
and millions of dollars later, on May 30, 1965, the first
commercial electric centeral office was put into service at
Succasunna, New Jersey.
Even at Succasunna, only 200 of the town's 4,300 subscribers
initially had the benefit of electronic switching's added speed
and additional services, such as provision for three party
conversations and automatic transfer of incoming calls. But after
that, ESS was on its way. In January 1966, the second commercial
installation, this one serving 2,900 telephones, went into
service in Chase, Maryland. By the end of 1967 there were
additional ESS offices in California, Connecticut, Minnesota,
Georgia, New York, Florida, and Pennsylvania; by the end of 1970
there were 120 offices serving 1.8 million customers; and by 1974
there were 475 offices serving 5.6 million customers.
The difference between conventional switching and electronic
switching is the difference between "hardware" and "software"; in
the former case, maintenence is done on the spot, with
screwdriver and pliers, while in the case of electronic
switching, it can be done remotely, by computer, from a centeral
point, making it possible to have only one or two technicians on
duty at a time at each switching center. The development program,
when the final figures were added up, was found to have required
a staggering four thousand man-years of work at Bell Labs and to
have cost not $45 million but $500 million!

How to Kill Someone with your Bare Hands

This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell
of the best places to strike and kill an enemy...
When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake.
There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy.
Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out.
The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead.
When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full
use of his natural weapons. The natural weapons are:
1. The knife edge of your hands.
2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.
3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger.
4. The heel of your hand.
5. Your boot
6. Elbows
7. Knees
8. and Teeth.
Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never
won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength.
At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies
body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has
two purposes.
1. To frighten and confuse your enemy.
2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put
more oxygen in your blood stream. Your balance and balance of your
enemy are two inportant factors; since, if you succeed in making
your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to
one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all
stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart,
with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms
should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the
balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kinda of like a
boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can
throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of
the body. We will cover them now:
Eyes:Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion.
Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand
along the bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary
blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow
with the heel of your hand in an upward motion, this›will shove the
bone up into the brain causing death.
Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you
get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This
should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of
minutes.
Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard
enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down,
kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again.
Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of
the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to
use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object.
Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are
extrememly close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme
pain, and unconciosness.
Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping
motion over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations
caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause
internal bleeding in the brain.
Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee
hard, and he'll buckle over very fast.
Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very
close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge
of your hand can cause death.
There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should
work best for the average person. This is meant only as information
and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl.
Use these methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger.
Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause permanent damage
to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves
before using them on a dummy, or a mock battle with a friend.
(You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.)

Phone Taps

Phone Taps by The Jolly Roger
Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a
simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder
control relay to the phone line.
First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different
types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction
taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be
physically connected to the line before they will do any good.
Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all
conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the
house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room
and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the
phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more
information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular
Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the
other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the
line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious
advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of
wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have
to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit
all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known
as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook
one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone
calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over
the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike
on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the
conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at
415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one
of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you
will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps
that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be
touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work
on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder
mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.
Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes
the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber
cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all
conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the
cubes fall away unnoticed.
A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is
doing when you are wardialing, hacking, or just plain calling a
bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver, Colorado! 55 megs online!
Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way, i
did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).
Here is the schematic:
-------)!----)!(------------->
)!(
Cap ^ )!(
)!(
)!(
)!(
^^^^^---)!(------------->
^ 100K
!
! Ask to speak to their supervisor... or
better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in
any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse.
By the way, some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the
4th digit, will also allow you to call special operators & other
fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare, though! For
example,212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator.
Office Hierarchy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Every switching office in North America (the NPA system), is
assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of
offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or
end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll
office which can be a class 4, 3, 2, or 1 office. There is also a
class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a
digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it
(known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)).
The following chart will list the Office #, name, & how many of
those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:
Class Name Abb # Existing
----- ----------------------- --- -----------------
> 1 Regional Center RC 12
> 2 Sectional Center SC 67
> 3 Primary Center PC 230
> 4 Toll Center TC 1,300
> 4P Toll Point TP n/a
> 4X Intermediate Point IP n/a
> 5 End Office EO 19,000
> 6 RSU RSU n/a
When connecting a call from one party to another, the switching
equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the
class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the
called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two
parties, it will then move upward to the next highest office for
servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the
call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office, it will then be
sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The
switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk
groups, if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on
the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected, you will
probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy
signal] signal. At this time, the guys at Network Operations are
probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded
Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!).
It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is
called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone
history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way
to really screw up the network].
The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all
interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone
network. Since there are only 12 of them, they are listed below:
Class 1 Regional Office Location NPA
-------------------------------- ---
Dallas 4 ESS 214
Wayne, PA 215
Denver 4T 303
Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada) 306
St. Louis 4T 314
Rockdale, GA 404
Pittsburgh 4E 412
Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada) 504
That's it for now! More info to come Future update to the
Cookbook! Have fun!

Highway police radar jamming

Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this
device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of
the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in
Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN!
-Jolly Roger-
P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of
POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can
get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds
of neat things!

Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach

Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach

By The Jolly Roger

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.
First off, you must obtain:
[1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
[2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
[3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
chemicals)
[4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery
hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again
and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You
should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.
You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by
writing:
Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762

Counterfeiting Money

Counterfeiting Money by JRoger
Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a
book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in
counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method
of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.
Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which
involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is
impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the
process.
Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency
with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking
material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives,
commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate
with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then
developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time,
these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.
The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick
360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of
the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take
them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides,
touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers.
The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered
(lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you
need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side,
cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from
the flat replacing it with the new one.
Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color:
black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created
by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a
lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must
be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges.
Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and
place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the
edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and
cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and
do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark.
Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate
plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images
on each plate with an equal space between each bill.
The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for
most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content.
By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does
the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure
to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the
black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it
around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more
than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while
that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back
side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the
serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side.
Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print
the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or
serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another
and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different
numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a
paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by
now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To
dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea
bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment
with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine
US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills.
Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example,
wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.
As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset
printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly
hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset
printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is
about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of
showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The
Poor Man's James Bond".
If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other
method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser
copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color,
including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in
counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck!

Growing Condition For Marijuana

Growing Conditions
Marijuana likes as much sun as it can get, and a moist but will-drained soil.
It does not do well in swampy and clay soils. The soil should be high in
nitrogen and potassium and medium in phosphorous. The pH should be at least
5.5; it will do better at 6.5 - 7.5.
At least two months before planting you should test and adjust the soil.
Needed nutrients should be added to the soil at least a month before planting
for the best results. This gives the fertilizer time to dissolve.
The pH can be raised by adding ground limestone, dolomite limestone, hydrated
lime, marl or ground sea shells.
Sandy and loamy soil can be conditioned just by adding fertilizer and making
pH adjustments. Nurseries carry several different fertilizer mixes. Select one
closest to your needs as determined by the soil tests. Some Agricultural
Colleges will do these tests for you.
Turn and loosen the soil and break up large clods of earth. Clear all ground
near the spot where you are planting. Add fertilizer and work it into the
ground. If it rains frequently in your area, the fertilizer will soak into the
ground by itself. If no, water the area so that is dissolves.
Clay soils can be adjusted by working in straw, manure, leaves and stalks,
compost, kitty litter or construction sand. These help to keep the soil loose
and aerated.
Swampy areas can be adjusted by building planting mounds about one foot high
and one foot across. The mounds will have better drainage than the surrounding
soil and they will not become waterlogged.
If the soil is very bad and you are only growing a small patch there are other
ways of changing soil conditions:
1. Buy topsoil and place it in holes where you are going to plant. This is
only for small gardens as it can be expensive and laborious.
2. Dig a hole one foot deep and one foot wide. Fill in six inches deep with
manure or compost sprinkled with lime. Fill the remainder of the hole with
soil.
3. Use a self-contained planting pot as described in Transplanting.
To get a longer season, you can start seeds indoors and transplant them
outside after the threat of frost has passed. This is especially helpful in
the Northern US, NZ South Island and Sunny Britain, where the growing season
is short. Seeds can be started as much as two months before the season begins.
There are several methods for starting seeds:
1. Planting Pellets. These are one and a half inch pellets which expand when
they come in contact with water. They come in several pH levels. Get either a
6.5 or a 7. These are the easiest units for starting seedlings. Just follow
the directions on the package. They should be used only if you are planning to
plant within a month.
2. Planting Pots. These pots are made of compressed peat moss. They come in
all sizes, but the best is probably 2" X 2". Fill with one of the soil
mixtures described in Indoor Cultivation. Try to prepare from the same soil to
which the plants will be moved later. Plant several seeds in each pot and thin
to one plant per pot. When you are ready to transplant outdoors, just dig a
hole and put the planting pot in it. The pot will disintegrate when the root
system gets big enough.
Tin cans and toilet rolls can be used instead of planting pots. Make sure the
cans have drainage holes in them and that the sides are scored so that the
roots can grow out of them. Do not use aluminium cans. They won't disintegrate
and the plants roots will be trapped.
3. Seed Trays. Seed trays are the most economical way of starting large
numbers of seedlings, but the plant's roots may be damaged when you
transplant. Fill plastic planting trays with one of the mixtures described in
Indoor Cultivation. Sow one seed every inch, but thin to one plant every two
inches when they begin to interfere with each other. When you are ready to
transplant them, slice the soil into squares and plant outdoors. Treat to
prevent shock.
4. Self-contained Soil Unit. This method should be used only when the soil is
unsuitable for adjustment. Use large cans. Fill with 3 inches of vermiculite
or perlite mixed with a slow release fertilizer, and then fill it the rest of
the way with a mixture of soil, perlite, vermiculite and sand. A mixture of
soil, manure, humus, and potash can also be used. Holes should be punched in
the bottom of the can for drainage. When you are ready to plant outdoors, put
the can in a hole in the ground.
Use the same methods in cultivating these plants indoors as you would if they
were to remain indoors permanently. If you are planning to keep the plants
indoors for more than a month, they have to be introduced to the sun's
intensity gradually. The plants need at least 40 watts of fluorescent light
per square foot to avoid shock. This will also build up the sugar supply to
help the plant avoid transplant shock. Other ways of avoiding shock are by
putting trays of seedlings outdoors for a few hours a day for a few days in a
partially sunny area before they are transplanted.
If you have indoor plants already growing, you can clip shoots about 3 inches
from the growing tip and put each of them in one of the containers mentioned
previously. They will quickly develop roots and start growing into new plants,
especially if a little hormone rooting powder is used. This is a good method
of obtaining high quality transplant stock.
The night before you transplant, water both the plant and the soil to which
you are going to transplant. Also, to prevent shock, transplants should be
made to and from soils with the same chemical or textural characteristics
(unless you are using the self-contained soil unit method).
Plant on a cloudy day or late in the afternoon. Never plant or transplant on a
bright sunny day. The sun's energy is too much for the plants to take at
first.

Need And Ways To Fertilize The Plants

Fertilizing
As the plants grow, they take nutrients from the soil. These nutrients must be
replaced if the plants are to stay healthy and strong, and to maintain a rapid
rate of growth. The main elements are nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and
potassium (K). These are the three mystic numbers listed on the sides of
fertilizer packets: for example, 5-10-5. Calcium, magnesium, sulphur and iron
are used in much lesser amounts, as are minute quantities of many other
elements called trace elements or micro-nutrients. Each element affects
different characteristics in the plant and all are necessary for healthy
growth.
Nitrogen promotes rapid growth, lush foliage and stocky plants. During the
first few months of growth, marijuana needs a lot of nitrogen. An abundance of
nitrogen during the early stages will induce more female plants to develop.
Obviously, there will be more males if there is a shortage of nitrogen.
Phosphorous promotes root growth, and is necessary for healthy flower and seed
development. When flowering, marijuana uses about twice as much phosphorous as
it does during normal, vegetative growth.
Potassium regulates the utilisation of the nutrients by the plant. It
increases the vigour, strengthens stems, improves resistance to diseases, and
is essential for proper plant metabolism. The plant needs large amounts of
potassium during all stages of growth.
Calcium aids in the absorbtion of nutrients, neutralises soil acids, and
destroys some of the toxic compounds produced by the plant.
Testing the soil periodically is the surest way of maintaining a healthy
growing medium. Soil that tests high in nitrogen and potassium, and medium in
phosphorous will not have to be fertilized for a while. Soils found deficient
in one element can be treated with a singe component fertilizer.
When and how often to fertilize depends on the growing medium you started
with, the size of the pots, the health of the plants, and general growing
conditions. Normally, small pots (4 to 6 inches) should be fertilized about
three weeks after sprouting. Fish emulsion (5-2-5, for those who know the
magic numbers) is a good organic fertilizer. Dilute one teaspoon per gallon of
water and use each time you water for the first two months, and once every two
weeks thereafter. Chemical fertilizers such as Rapid-Gro (23-19-17),
Phostrogen, or Miracle-Gro (15-30-15) can be used in accordance with
instructions listed for houseplants. Don't use fertilizers recommended for
"acid-loving plants", and never add solid fertilizers such as cow manure once
the plants have started. They promote moulds that can do a lot more harm than
good.
Large pots (10 to 18 inches) need not be fertilized at all if the soil was
rich in nutrients to begin with.
Soil-less mixtures must be treated with a trace element mixture. Mix one
tablespoon per gallon of water the first time you water. Every six weeks
later, water with one teaspoon per gallon. Increase the treatment if the
plants show any trace-element deficiencies.
You can use any houseplant fertilizer. These also contain trace elements. An
ideal formulas ratio for producing the most desirable results at each of the
stages of the plant's life (rapid growth and profuse foliage in the beginning,
and good development during middle life, with high resin content during
flowering) is as follows:
N=Nitrogen, P=Phosphorous, K=Potassium
N P K
Start (2nd week) 20:5:15
2 months before flowering 10:5:15
During flowering 5:12:10
It is not necessary to fertilize in these ratios, only that the plants receive
enough of each element.
Use one tablespoon of micro-nutrient mix to each gallon of water during the
first week, and thereafter use once every six weeks.
One week after sprouting, water with fertilizer in dilutions recommended on
packages for large bushes and tomatoes. Repeat this application in the third,
fifth, and eighth weeks. Thereafter, fertilize in dilutions recommended for
houseplants once every two weeks until flowering starts.
Some words of caution: Many people, in an effort to do the best for their
plants, actually do the worst. Over-fertilizing will put excessive amounts of
soluble substances into the soil. They interfere with normal nutritional
processes and will cause poor growth and, in some cases, kill the plant.
For example, too much nitrogen will nitrify the soil and change its osmotic
properties. Instead of moisture being drawn into the plant, it is drawn away
and the plant dehydrates. In the limited area that your plant is occupying, it
is easy to overfertilize. If the plant looks healthy, and is growing well,
don't be anxious to fertilize. It is better that they are underfed rather than
overfed. Underfeeding can be recognised and corrected, but with
overfertilization, you must start another crop and replace or leach the soil
mix. It is better to use a diluted solution more often than to give one large
dose once a month.
Foliar feeding (spraying the leaves with fertilizer) is a good way to assure
the plants their nutrients without building up soluble substances in the soil.
After the first month, foliar feed the plants with fish emulsion or the
chemical fertilizers. Some of the chemical fertilizers are not recommended for
foliar feeding houseplants. Marijuana is not a houseplant. As long as the
fertilizer can be used for foliar feeding, use it on your plant. Use a fine
mist sprayer, they don't cost much and you should have one for watering your
seedlings anyway. Dilute fish emulsion to one teaspoon to a gallon and use
each time you water. Spraying with fish emulsion is a little smelly and may
change the flavour of the grass to a pleasant mint-like flavour. Dilute the
chemical fertilizers according to the directions on the packet, and spray
weekly.
The nutrients are absorbed through the leaf surface (both sides) and through
"breathing holes" (stomata) in the leaves. Occasionally spray with plain water
to redilute unabsorbed nutrients and to clean the plants.
If any plant has an unhealthy or discoloured appearance, make sure the problem
is not due to insect or disease before assuming a nutrient deficiency. Examine
the plants carefully, especially the undersides of leaves, along the stem and
in the soil.

Ways To Water Your Plant

Watering
Plants growing under artificial light have a long photoperiod, and no cloudy
days, so they grow extremely fast; one and a half feet per month is not
unusual. This means that the plants will use a lot of water. Since the space
around your plants is limited, you'll have to water them fairly often. This
does not mean watering them daily, or keeping the pots saturated. Plants grown
in a continuously wet soil are slower growing, and probably less potent than
normal. They often develop stem rot. Allow the pots to go through a wet and
dry cycle. This will add in nutrient uptake, especially on potassium, and
aerate the soil. In general, when the soil one inch deep is dry to touch,
water it enough so that the soil is saturated but not so much that water runs
out of the drainage holes, carrying away the soils valuable nutrients.
Self-watering plant pots are fine for keeping the plants alive while you go
off on holiday, but try not to use them in their intended role of keeping the
soil continuously moist.
If you underwater your plants, they will wilt. Plant cells are kept rigid by
the pressure of the cell contents (mostly water). With the water gone, they
collapse. First the bottom leaves droop, and the condition works itself up the
plant until the top lops over. If a plant wilts, water it immediately, and it
will recover within a few minutes. This happens so fast you can actually
follow the movement of the water as it goes up the plant.
There is no way we can tell you exactly how often to water your garden. Light,
temperature, humidity and the size of the plants and pots are only a few of
many variables that determine the water uptake.
Try to reach a median. Don't keep the pots constantly moist, and don't wait
until the plant dries out and keels over. Use some common sense, we have found
it in some members of the community. A six-foot plant in a four-inch pot will
have to be saturated almost every day. Large containers (10" width or more)
should not be watered to saturation, especially if the plants are small. They
will not dry out quickly enough and will encourage mould. Clay pots are porous
and "breath". They require more water than plastic or metal pots.
Don't disturb the roots when you water. Water around the stems, not on them.
Seedlings are likely to fall over if watered roughly. Use a hand sprinkler
with a fine spray for seedlings. When set on a coarse jet, these sprays are
invaluable for discouraging cats from sniffing the seedlings.
Use tepid water, it soaks into the soil more easily and will not shock the
roots. Try to water during the plants morning hours. Water from the top of the
pot. Refill the watering container then, and leave it ready for next time. Not
only will it all be ready, but the water will be at room temperature, and most
of the chlorine will have evaporated (see later).
Water from the top of the pot. If you insist on watering from the bottom with
trays, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in the trays to ensure drainage.
Don't let the pots sit in the water until the soil becomes super-saturated.
This prevents oxygen uptake and the plants will grow poorly.
The tap water in some areas is acidic (sulphurous) or alkaline (limestone) and
can change the soil pH. If you are in such an area, check the pH every week or
so.
Tap water in some locales is highly chlorinated. The chlorine does not harm
the plants, but it can kill the micro-organisms in the soil that are necessary
to break down nutrients to a form that the plants can use. Allowing
chlorinated water to stand overnight will eliminate most of the chlorine gas
and it can then be used safely.

How To Prepare Soil For Plants

Soil Preparation
Marijuana grows best in a well-drained sandy soil or loam which is high in
nitrogen and potash, at least medium in phosphorous, and which contains little
or no clay. The pH should be between slightly acidic (6.5) and slightly
alkaline (7.5). If the pH is either too low or too high it will interfere with
nutrient uptake. The pH is measured on a scale of 0 to 14 with 7.0 assigned as
neutral. pH is a measure of the relative concentrations of hydroxonium ions
(H3O+) to hydroxide ions (OH2-). Several varieties of test kits and meters can
be purchased from garden stores which test the pH and nutrient contents of the
soil. Litmus paper (purple or blue) can be obtained from some chemists. Many
agricultural schools or colleges will test soil pH and nutrient contents for a
nominal fee.
Soil pH is raised to an acceptable level by adding slaked (hydrated) lime,
limestone and marl. There is no set formula we can give for raising the pH. At
a low pH it takes less time to raise the level by one point than it does when
the pH is nearer to neutral (7.0). Sandy soils require less lime than clay
soils to raise the pH. In general, if the soil tests acid, add 2 cups of
hydrated lime for each 50 lb bag of soil. On a more modest scale, this works
out at roughly one tablespoon for every 1 1/2 lbs of soil. Wet the soil
thoroughly after mixing. Re-test the soil in about 2 weeks, and repeat the
application until the pH is in an acceptable range. Soil that is too alkaline
is treated in the same way, but with aluminium sulphate at a rate of 1/2 cup
per 50 lbs of soil.
If you are digging up your soil, sift it well to remove stones and root clods.
Bake the soil in a 200 degree centigrade oven for twenty minutes in one-inch
layers, in a pressure cooker at 15 lbs/sq in pressure, or in a microwave on
full for ten minutes (make doubley sure there are no foreign particles in it).
This will destroy any weed seeds, insect eggs and disease organisms in the
soil.
It is, much, much, simpler to buy commercially prepared soils. These are
usually sterilised (but if the bag has been opened or holed, sterilize again
anyway) and have a good balance of nutrients. Ask for soil with a neutral pH.
Some nursery-men (and women) will sell you anything, so check the pH anyway
and reject any soil for "lime-hating" plants.
We have had good results from some brands using composted seaweed as an
ingredient.
The consistency and structure of the soil is important for healthy root
development, drainage and uniform water dispersion. The medium should not cake
when dry (this rules out John Innes No. 3) and should remain spongy or loose
when wet. Test the consistency,and adjust it if necessary.
To test the consistency of the soil, lightly moisten some and squeeze it in
your fist. The ball should crumble easily when touched. Soil consistency can
be adjusted by adding perlite, vermiculite, sand or kitty litter.
Perlite and vermiculite are inexpensive commercial products which are much
lighter than sand and are sterile. Vermiculite absorbs and holds water and air
in its fibre. Perlite traps moisture and air on its irregular surface much
like sand. Sphagnum or peat moss is often used to adjust soils, but should not
be used for marijuana as it tends to make the mix acidic. If you have alkaline
soil to start with though, you might get away with it.
Soils found deficient in nutrient content can be enriched by adding humus
(decayed organic matter) or fertilizers such as rose food, liquinure etc.
Humus is acidic and can alter the pH.
Soil-less mixtures are inexpensive and easy to prepare. They work well, are
neutral in pH and light in weight, but have absolutely no nutrient content.
They must be carefully fertilized and are not recommended for an inexperienced
grower. It is all too easy to over- or under-fertilize the plants.
Two tested formulas are:
1) One part perlite or sand to one part vermiculite and 1 tbsp of lime per
quart of mixture.
2) One part perlite or sand to one part Jiffy Mix and 1 tbsp of lime per quart
of mixture.
You can mix three parts of the soil-less mixture to one part cow manure, or
rely solely on soluble fertilizers when watering.
Simple Guidelines
Some of you who are not familiar with gardening may be a little over-whelmed
by all this talk of pH, nitrogen etc... so here is a simple uncomplicated
formula for those of you with no experience with plants:
Buy commercial soil. Avoid brands that have peat in their names, and not just
because peat is an over-exploited resource. It is very unlikely that a
commercial soil will be too alkaline for healthy growth, but it may well be
too acidic. The simplest way to assure yourself your soil is not too acidic,is
to put a piece of damp blue litmus paper (blue litmus is available from some
chemists and garden centres) under the surface of the soil. Wait a few minutes
and then take it out. It will not harm the soil - litmus comes from a lichen.
If the paper turns pink, the soil is acidic and lime must be added. Mix two
cups of slaked (hydrated) lime, from your garden store, to each 50 lbs of
soil. Don't add lime if the paper remains blue. If you find yourself asking
"is this paper pink, purple or just wet ?", then the soil is probably slightly
acidic and within an acceptable range for healthy growth.
Mix 10 lbs of natural, sterilized fertilizer (usually based on cow manure or
chickenshit) to each 50 lbs of soil. If you have some aversion to muck, or
don't like the smell (well rotted manure doesn't smell, by the way) then you
can use a soluble fertilizer when watering. We use a brand called
'phostrogen', which seems to work well. By volume, also mix in one part of
sand, perlite or vermiculite for every three parts of your soil. This helps
maintain the right soil texture for healthy root growth.
After potting and watering, the mixture should be re-tested in about a
fortnight if it tested acidic to begin with.
If it is still acidic, add hydrated lime by mixing one tbsp of lime per quart
of water, the first few times you water. Test your water supply by dipping a
piece of litmus in plain water to determine if it is influencing your tests.
To pot any of the mixtures, cover the drainage holes with a square of
newspaper or window screen to prevent soil from running out. Next, put in a
layer of sand, perlite, vermiculite or kitty litter about one inch deep to
ensure good drainage. Fill the pots to within 3/4 inch from the top of the pot
with the soil mixture. Water the pots until the soil is evenly moist, and
allow the pots to stand for a day or two so that bacteria necessary for
nutrient uptake can begin to grow and the fertilizers can start to dissolve
into the soil.

INDOOR CULTIVATION

INDOOR CULTIVATION
The Indoor Garden
Under artificial light, marijuana grows very fast; about 3-6 feet in three
months. As you want the lights fairly close to the plants, you must arrange
the lights so that their height can be altered. Hang the fixtures by a rope or
chain from the walls or ceiling, or from the top of a frame at least 6 feet
high, constructed of 2" X 2"s. The bar for hanging clothes on in a wardrobe
works quite well if it is high enough. Try to obtain an industrial type light
fixture with a built-in reflector, so that no light is lost. If your fixtures
are not equipped with reflectors, mount them on a sheet of white painted
plywood, make a reflector from white posterboard, or (at a pinch) sheets of
white cartridge paper. Don't use aluminium foil (see later).
Ten watts of tube power for each square foot of growing area is adequate for
healthy growth, but for a fast growing, lush crop, use at least 20 watts per
square foot. The size and shape of your garden should correspond to the light
system, so if the garden is 1 X 4 feet, use 2 four-foot tubes (80 watts). If
the garden is 8 X 2 feet, use 4 eight-foot tubes. One eight -foot tube emits
more light than 2 four-foot tubes, so try to use as few tubes as possible.
Marijuana can absorb up to 80 watts per square foot. Increasing the amount of
light will increase the growth rate, and the quality of your plants.
The garden should be surrounded by reflective surfaces to contain all of the
light. This will increase the efficiency of the lighting significantly and the
light will be nearly uniform throughout out the garden until the fixtures are
more than 2 feet high. A flat white paint is a better reflecting surface that
aluminium foil or glossy white paint. Flat white has about the same reflecting
capacity as aluminium foil, but reflects the light more uniformly. Paint walls
flat white, and hang posterboard, white plastic curtain, thick white paper
etc. on any open sides from the top of the fixture or frame. Sticking white
card over the inside of your wardrobe is fine if you can find the white card
for free. If your reflectors are the only enclosure for your plants, make them
waterproof, and they will insure a healthy humidity by containing moisture
evaporating from the soil and transpired by the plants.
Don't rely on training pets to stay out of the garden. Cats know damn well
what the stuff is, and they may chew the leaves or consume the best parts of
several plants. Dogs aren't much better either. Scratching in soil is in and
animals' nature. After all, look at all that time you spent teaching Tibbles
to use the litter tray. One moment of weakness can destroy months of work (see
"cuttings" in case of dire emergency). If the garden is accessible to pets,
surround it with chicken wire or heavy plastic. Ironmongers sell plastic on
rolls, and inexpensive plastic dropcloths. Cover the floor with plastic too.
It will protect your floor (and, if you're in a flat, your neighbours ceiling)
from possible water damage. The last thing you want is the council sniffing
around for leaks !
Artificial Light
The most effective and efficient artificial light for plant growth is
fluorescent light. There now follows a (very) brief physics lesson: The white
light you see emitted by a fluorescent bulb consists of all the colours of the
spectrum. The designation - Daylight, Warm White, Gro-lux, Optima, etc. - give
a heavy clue to what particular combination of bits of the spectrum each bulb
generates. Plants respond primarily to red and blue light, and for healthy
growth, a combination of these two colours must be provided. Blue light
stimulates leaf growth, produces short, stocky stems, and encourages robust
development. Red light is used for stem and root growth, and to promote
flowering.
The best fluorescent tubes are those that are specifically manufactured to
give out light useful to plants, and have a distinct purple hue. Some of these
are the Standard Gro-lux, Wide Spectrum Gro-lux, and plant Gro.
Sizes suitable for growing marijuana are 4,6, and 8 feet long. Regular
wattages for all of these tubes are about 10 watts for each foot of their
length (80 watts for an eight-foot tube). They also come in higher wattage
sizes. These are Power Twists, High Output (HO) and Very High Output (VHO)
tubes, the largest being a 215 watt, eight-foot tube. These high output tubes
are not always available, and tend to come a little on the expensive side. You
only really need to use them in an exceptionally large garden.
Regular fluorescent tubes can be used if you can't get Gro-tubes. They don't
work quite as well, but they will grow a perfectly healthy crop, and usually
work out more than a little cheaper. Daylight, or Cool White tubes can be used
in conjunction with either Natural White or traditional (plug-in) bulbs.
Normal bulbs and Natural White both provide the red component of light, while
the others tend towards the blue end. Use them in a one to one ratio, evenly
distributing the red and blue sources. Compared to the fluorescent tube, the
traditional lightbulb is about one third as efficient, has a much shorter
life, and can cause problems with it's excess heat. Not only might it scorch
your plants, it could set the whole house up if you haven't supported the
lights properly. But think what a wonderful time the fire-brigade would have
....

How to Choose Pots And Containers For Plants

Pots and Containers
Plants can be started in flower pots, milk crates, institutional size tin
cans, polystyrene packaging, plastic jugs, or practically any container that
is waterproof, at least 4" wide, and doesn't mind having a few holes punched
in the bottom of it for drainage. Grow-bags are suitable, but will need holes
punched in the bottom for drainage, and will probably need their pH checked.
A single large box has the advantage of giving more room for the roots to
spread out, but requires a lot more soil and makes moving, lighting and
rotating the plants impractical.
In it's natural state, marijuana sends down a tap root up to half the length
of the plant. Apart from the fact that there aren't many three-foot deep plant
pots about, trying to simulate natural conditions would be impractical in
terms of weight, space, cost and labour.
The purpose of the soil (not necessarily ordinary dirt) is to provide water
and nutrients, and to anchor the plant down. With strict attention to proper
watering and fertilizing techniques, a six-foot plant can be grown in a
four-inch pot. The plant will, however, grow much better in a series of
successively larger pots - six to ten inch pots are a good median size, and
aren't too heavy to move around when necessary.
Use as many pots as you can fit under the lighting system. The pots can always
be thinned out if the plants become too crowded. Choose pots that are at least
as wide at the top as the bottom, so that the soil can breath and dry out more
easily.
Wash all cans, crates and pots etc thoroughly to remove any contaminants and/
or insects. Boil clay pots for ten minutes to sterilize them. Some plastic,
and most clay, utensils can be dampened and put in a microwave for ten minutes
instead.