THE HISTORY OF ESS

Of all the new 1960s wonders of telephone technology -
satellites, ultra modern Traffic Service Positions (TSPS) for
operators, the picturephone, and so on - the one that gave Bell
Labs the most trouble, and unexpectedly became the greatest
development effort in Bell System's history, was the perfection
of an electronic switching system, or ESS.
It may be recalled that such a system was the specific end in
view when the project that had culminated in the invention of the
transistor had been launched back in the 1930s. After successful
accomplishment of that planned miracle in 1947-48, further delays
were brought about by financial stringency and the need for
further development of the transistor itself. In the early 1950s,
a Labs team began serious work on electronic switching. As early
as 1955, Western Electric became involved when five engineers
from the Hawthorne works were assigned to collaborate with the
Labs on the project. The president of AT&T in 1956, wrote
confidently, "At Bell Labs, development of the new electronic
switching system is going full speed ahead. We are sure this will
lead to many improvements in service and also to greater
efficiency. The first service trial will start in Morris, Ill.,
in 1959." Shortly thereafter, Kappel said that the cost of the
whole project would probably be $45 million.
But it gradually became apparent that the developement of a
commercially usable electronic switching system - in effect, a
computerized telephone exchange - presented vastly greater
technical problems than had been anticipated, and that,
accordingly, Bell Labs had vastly underestimated both the time
and the investment needed to do the job. The year 1959 passed
without the promised first trial at Morris, Illinois; it was
finally made in November 1960, and quickly showed how much more
work remained to be done. As time dragged on and costs mounted,
there was a concern at AT&T and something approaching panic at
Bell Labs. But the project had to go forward; by this time the
investment was too great to be sacrificed, and in any case,
forward projections of increased demand for telephone service
indicated that within a phew years a time would come when,
without the quantum leap in speed and flexibility that electronic
switching would provide, the national network would be unable to
meet the demand. In November 1963, an all-electronic switching
system went into use at the Brown Engineering Company at Cocoa
Beach, Florida. But this was a small installation, essentially
another test installation, serving only a single company.
Kappel's tone on the subject in the 1964 annual report was, for
him, an almost apologetic: "Electronic switching equipment must
be manufactured in volume to unprecedented standards of
reliability.... To turn out the equipment economically and with
good speed, mass production methods must be developed; but, at
the same time, there can be no loss of precision..." Another year
and millions of dollars later, on May 30, 1965, the first
commercial electric centeral office was put into service at
Succasunna, New Jersey.
Even at Succasunna, only 200 of the town's 4,300 subscribers
initially had the benefit of electronic switching's added speed
and additional services, such as provision for three party
conversations and automatic transfer of incoming calls. But after
that, ESS was on its way. In January 1966, the second commercial
installation, this one serving 2,900 telephones, went into
service in Chase, Maryland. By the end of 1967 there were
additional ESS offices in California, Connecticut, Minnesota,
Georgia, New York, Florida, and Pennsylvania; by the end of 1970
there were 120 offices serving 1.8 million customers; and by 1974
there were 475 offices serving 5.6 million customers.
The difference between conventional switching and electronic
switching is the difference between "hardware" and "software"; in
the former case, maintenence is done on the spot, with
screwdriver and pliers, while in the case of electronic
switching, it can be done remotely, by computer, from a centeral
point, making it possible to have only one or two technicians on
duty at a time at each switching center. The development program,
when the final figures were added up, was found to have required
a staggering four thousand man-years of work at Bell Labs and to
have cost not $45 million but $500 million!

How to Kill Someone with your Bare Hands

This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell
of the best places to strike and kill an enemy...
When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake.
There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy.
Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out.
The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead.
When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full
use of his natural weapons. The natural weapons are:
1. The knife edge of your hands.
2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.
3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger.
4. The heel of your hand.
5. Your boot
6. Elbows
7. Knees
8. and Teeth.
Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never
won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength.
At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies
body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has
two purposes.
1. To frighten and confuse your enemy.
2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put
more oxygen in your blood stream. Your balance and balance of your
enemy are two inportant factors; since, if you succeed in making
your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to
one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all
stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart,
with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms
should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the
balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kinda of like a
boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can
throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of
the body. We will cover them now:
Eyes:Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion.
Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand
along the bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary
blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow
with the heel of your hand in an upward motion, this›will shove the
bone up into the brain causing death.
Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you
get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This
should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of
minutes.
Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard
enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down,
kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again.
Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of
the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to
use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object.
Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are
extrememly close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme
pain, and unconciosness.
Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping
motion over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations
caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause
internal bleeding in the brain.
Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee
hard, and he'll buckle over very fast.
Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very
close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge
of your hand can cause death.
There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should
work best for the average person. This is meant only as information
and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl.
Use these methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger.
Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause permanent damage
to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves
before using them on a dummy, or a mock battle with a friend.
(You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.)

Phone Taps

Phone Taps by The Jolly Roger
Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a
simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder
control relay to the phone line.
First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different
types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction
taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be
physically connected to the line before they will do any good.
Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all
conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the
house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room
and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the
phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more
information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular
Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the
other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the
line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious
advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of
wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have
to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit
all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known
as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook
one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone
calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over
the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike
on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the
conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at
415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one
of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you
will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps
that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be
touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work
on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder
mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.
Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes
the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber
cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all
conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the
cubes fall away unnoticed.
A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is
doing when you are wardialing, hacking, or just plain calling a
bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver, Colorado! 55 megs online!
Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way, i
did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).
Here is the schematic:
-------)!----)!(------------->
)!(
Cap ^ )!(
)!(
)!(
)!(
^^^^^---)!(------------->
^ 100K
!
! Ask to speak to their supervisor... or
better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in
any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse.
By the way, some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the
4th digit, will also allow you to call special operators & other
fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare, though! For
example,212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator.
Office Hierarchy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Every switching office in North America (the NPA system), is
assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of
offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or
end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll
office which can be a class 4, 3, 2, or 1 office. There is also a
class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a
digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it
(known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)).
The following chart will list the Office #, name, & how many of
those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:
Class Name Abb # Existing
----- ----------------------- --- -----------------
> 1 Regional Center RC 12
> 2 Sectional Center SC 67
> 3 Primary Center PC 230
> 4 Toll Center TC 1,300
> 4P Toll Point TP n/a
> 4X Intermediate Point IP n/a
> 5 End Office EO 19,000
> 6 RSU RSU n/a
When connecting a call from one party to another, the switching
equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the
class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the
called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two
parties, it will then move upward to the next highest office for
servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the
call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office, it will then be
sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The
switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk
groups, if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on
the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected, you will
probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy
signal] signal. At this time, the guys at Network Operations are
probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded
Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!).
It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is
called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone
history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way
to really screw up the network].
The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all
interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone
network. Since there are only 12 of them, they are listed below:
Class 1 Regional Office Location NPA
-------------------------------- ---
Dallas 4 ESS 214
Wayne, PA 215
Denver 4T 303
Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada) 306
St. Louis 4T 314
Rockdale, GA 404
Pittsburgh 4E 412
Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada) 504
That's it for now! More info to come Future update to the
Cookbook! Have fun!

Highway police radar jamming

Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this
device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of
the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in
Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN!
-Jolly Roger-
P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of
POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can
get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds
of neat things!

Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach

Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach

By The Jolly Roger

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.
First off, you must obtain:
[1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
[2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
[3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
chemicals)
[4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery
hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again
and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You
should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.
You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by
writing:
Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762

Counterfeiting Money

Counterfeiting Money by JRoger
Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a
book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in
counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method
of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.
Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which
involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is
impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the
process.
Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency
with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking
material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives,
commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate
with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then
developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time,
these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.
The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick
360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of
the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take
them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides,
touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers.
The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered
(lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you
need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side,
cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from
the flat replacing it with the new one.
Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color:
black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created
by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a
lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must
be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges.
Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and
place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the
edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and
cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and
do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark.
Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate
plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images
on each plate with an equal space between each bill.
The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for
most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content.
By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does
the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure
to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the
black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it
around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more
than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while
that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back
side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the
serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side.
Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print
the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or
serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another
and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different
numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a
paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by
now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To
dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea
bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment
with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine
US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills.
Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example,
wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.
As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset
printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly
hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset
printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is
about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of
showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The
Poor Man's James Bond".
If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other
method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser
copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color,
including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in
counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck!

Growing Condition For Marijuana

Growing Conditions
Marijuana likes as much sun as it can get, and a moist but will-drained soil.
It does not do well in swampy and clay soils. The soil should be high in
nitrogen and potassium and medium in phosphorous. The pH should be at least
5.5; it will do better at 6.5 - 7.5.
At least two months before planting you should test and adjust the soil.
Needed nutrients should be added to the soil at least a month before planting
for the best results. This gives the fertilizer time to dissolve.
The pH can be raised by adding ground limestone, dolomite limestone, hydrated
lime, marl or ground sea shells.
Sandy and loamy soil can be conditioned just by adding fertilizer and making
pH adjustments. Nurseries carry several different fertilizer mixes. Select one
closest to your needs as determined by the soil tests. Some Agricultural
Colleges will do these tests for you.
Turn and loosen the soil and break up large clods of earth. Clear all ground
near the spot where you are planting. Add fertilizer and work it into the
ground. If it rains frequently in your area, the fertilizer will soak into the
ground by itself. If no, water the area so that is dissolves.
Clay soils can be adjusted by working in straw, manure, leaves and stalks,
compost, kitty litter or construction sand. These help to keep the soil loose
and aerated.
Swampy areas can be adjusted by building planting mounds about one foot high
and one foot across. The mounds will have better drainage than the surrounding
soil and they will not become waterlogged.
If the soil is very bad and you are only growing a small patch there are other
ways of changing soil conditions:
1. Buy topsoil and place it in holes where you are going to plant. This is
only for small gardens as it can be expensive and laborious.
2. Dig a hole one foot deep and one foot wide. Fill in six inches deep with
manure or compost sprinkled with lime. Fill the remainder of the hole with
soil.
3. Use a self-contained planting pot as described in Transplanting.
To get a longer season, you can start seeds indoors and transplant them
outside after the threat of frost has passed. This is especially helpful in
the Northern US, NZ South Island and Sunny Britain, where the growing season
is short. Seeds can be started as much as two months before the season begins.
There are several methods for starting seeds:
1. Planting Pellets. These are one and a half inch pellets which expand when
they come in contact with water. They come in several pH levels. Get either a
6.5 or a 7. These are the easiest units for starting seedlings. Just follow
the directions on the package. They should be used only if you are planning to
plant within a month.
2. Planting Pots. These pots are made of compressed peat moss. They come in
all sizes, but the best is probably 2" X 2". Fill with one of the soil
mixtures described in Indoor Cultivation. Try to prepare from the same soil to
which the plants will be moved later. Plant several seeds in each pot and thin
to one plant per pot. When you are ready to transplant outdoors, just dig a
hole and put the planting pot in it. The pot will disintegrate when the root
system gets big enough.
Tin cans and toilet rolls can be used instead of planting pots. Make sure the
cans have drainage holes in them and that the sides are scored so that the
roots can grow out of them. Do not use aluminium cans. They won't disintegrate
and the plants roots will be trapped.
3. Seed Trays. Seed trays are the most economical way of starting large
numbers of seedlings, but the plant's roots may be damaged when you
transplant. Fill plastic planting trays with one of the mixtures described in
Indoor Cultivation. Sow one seed every inch, but thin to one plant every two
inches when they begin to interfere with each other. When you are ready to
transplant them, slice the soil into squares and plant outdoors. Treat to
prevent shock.
4. Self-contained Soil Unit. This method should be used only when the soil is
unsuitable for adjustment. Use large cans. Fill with 3 inches of vermiculite
or perlite mixed with a slow release fertilizer, and then fill it the rest of
the way with a mixture of soil, perlite, vermiculite and sand. A mixture of
soil, manure, humus, and potash can also be used. Holes should be punched in
the bottom of the can for drainage. When you are ready to plant outdoors, put
the can in a hole in the ground.
Use the same methods in cultivating these plants indoors as you would if they
were to remain indoors permanently. If you are planning to keep the plants
indoors for more than a month, they have to be introduced to the sun's
intensity gradually. The plants need at least 40 watts of fluorescent light
per square foot to avoid shock. This will also build up the sugar supply to
help the plant avoid transplant shock. Other ways of avoiding shock are by
putting trays of seedlings outdoors for a few hours a day for a few days in a
partially sunny area before they are transplanted.
If you have indoor plants already growing, you can clip shoots about 3 inches
from the growing tip and put each of them in one of the containers mentioned
previously. They will quickly develop roots and start growing into new plants,
especially if a little hormone rooting powder is used. This is a good method
of obtaining high quality transplant stock.
The night before you transplant, water both the plant and the soil to which
you are going to transplant. Also, to prevent shock, transplants should be
made to and from soils with the same chemical or textural characteristics
(unless you are using the self-contained soil unit method).
Plant on a cloudy day or late in the afternoon. Never plant or transplant on a
bright sunny day. The sun's energy is too much for the plants to take at
first.

Need And Ways To Fertilize The Plants

Fertilizing
As the plants grow, they take nutrients from the soil. These nutrients must be
replaced if the plants are to stay healthy and strong, and to maintain a rapid
rate of growth. The main elements are nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and
potassium (K). These are the three mystic numbers listed on the sides of
fertilizer packets: for example, 5-10-5. Calcium, magnesium, sulphur and iron
are used in much lesser amounts, as are minute quantities of many other
elements called trace elements or micro-nutrients. Each element affects
different characteristics in the plant and all are necessary for healthy
growth.
Nitrogen promotes rapid growth, lush foliage and stocky plants. During the
first few months of growth, marijuana needs a lot of nitrogen. An abundance of
nitrogen during the early stages will induce more female plants to develop.
Obviously, there will be more males if there is a shortage of nitrogen.
Phosphorous promotes root growth, and is necessary for healthy flower and seed
development. When flowering, marijuana uses about twice as much phosphorous as
it does during normal, vegetative growth.
Potassium regulates the utilisation of the nutrients by the plant. It
increases the vigour, strengthens stems, improves resistance to diseases, and
is essential for proper plant metabolism. The plant needs large amounts of
potassium during all stages of growth.
Calcium aids in the absorbtion of nutrients, neutralises soil acids, and
destroys some of the toxic compounds produced by the plant.
Testing the soil periodically is the surest way of maintaining a healthy
growing medium. Soil that tests high in nitrogen and potassium, and medium in
phosphorous will not have to be fertilized for a while. Soils found deficient
in one element can be treated with a singe component fertilizer.
When and how often to fertilize depends on the growing medium you started
with, the size of the pots, the health of the plants, and general growing
conditions. Normally, small pots (4 to 6 inches) should be fertilized about
three weeks after sprouting. Fish emulsion (5-2-5, for those who know the
magic numbers) is a good organic fertilizer. Dilute one teaspoon per gallon of
water and use each time you water for the first two months, and once every two
weeks thereafter. Chemical fertilizers such as Rapid-Gro (23-19-17),
Phostrogen, or Miracle-Gro (15-30-15) can be used in accordance with
instructions listed for houseplants. Don't use fertilizers recommended for
"acid-loving plants", and never add solid fertilizers such as cow manure once
the plants have started. They promote moulds that can do a lot more harm than
good.
Large pots (10 to 18 inches) need not be fertilized at all if the soil was
rich in nutrients to begin with.
Soil-less mixtures must be treated with a trace element mixture. Mix one
tablespoon per gallon of water the first time you water. Every six weeks
later, water with one teaspoon per gallon. Increase the treatment if the
plants show any trace-element deficiencies.
You can use any houseplant fertilizer. These also contain trace elements. An
ideal formulas ratio for producing the most desirable results at each of the
stages of the plant's life (rapid growth and profuse foliage in the beginning,
and good development during middle life, with high resin content during
flowering) is as follows:
N=Nitrogen, P=Phosphorous, K=Potassium
N P K
Start (2nd week) 20:5:15
2 months before flowering 10:5:15
During flowering 5:12:10
It is not necessary to fertilize in these ratios, only that the plants receive
enough of each element.
Use one tablespoon of micro-nutrient mix to each gallon of water during the
first week, and thereafter use once every six weeks.
One week after sprouting, water with fertilizer in dilutions recommended on
packages for large bushes and tomatoes. Repeat this application in the third,
fifth, and eighth weeks. Thereafter, fertilize in dilutions recommended for
houseplants once every two weeks until flowering starts.
Some words of caution: Many people, in an effort to do the best for their
plants, actually do the worst. Over-fertilizing will put excessive amounts of
soluble substances into the soil. They interfere with normal nutritional
processes and will cause poor growth and, in some cases, kill the plant.
For example, too much nitrogen will nitrify the soil and change its osmotic
properties. Instead of moisture being drawn into the plant, it is drawn away
and the plant dehydrates. In the limited area that your plant is occupying, it
is easy to overfertilize. If the plant looks healthy, and is growing well,
don't be anxious to fertilize. It is better that they are underfed rather than
overfed. Underfeeding can be recognised and corrected, but with
overfertilization, you must start another crop and replace or leach the soil
mix. It is better to use a diluted solution more often than to give one large
dose once a month.
Foliar feeding (spraying the leaves with fertilizer) is a good way to assure
the plants their nutrients without building up soluble substances in the soil.
After the first month, foliar feed the plants with fish emulsion or the
chemical fertilizers. Some of the chemical fertilizers are not recommended for
foliar feeding houseplants. Marijuana is not a houseplant. As long as the
fertilizer can be used for foliar feeding, use it on your plant. Use a fine
mist sprayer, they don't cost much and you should have one for watering your
seedlings anyway. Dilute fish emulsion to one teaspoon to a gallon and use
each time you water. Spraying with fish emulsion is a little smelly and may
change the flavour of the grass to a pleasant mint-like flavour. Dilute the
chemical fertilizers according to the directions on the packet, and spray
weekly.
The nutrients are absorbed through the leaf surface (both sides) and through
"breathing holes" (stomata) in the leaves. Occasionally spray with plain water
to redilute unabsorbed nutrients and to clean the plants.
If any plant has an unhealthy or discoloured appearance, make sure the problem
is not due to insect or disease before assuming a nutrient deficiency. Examine
the plants carefully, especially the undersides of leaves, along the stem and
in the soil.

Ways To Water Your Plant

Watering
Plants growing under artificial light have a long photoperiod, and no cloudy
days, so they grow extremely fast; one and a half feet per month is not
unusual. This means that the plants will use a lot of water. Since the space
around your plants is limited, you'll have to water them fairly often. This
does not mean watering them daily, or keeping the pots saturated. Plants grown
in a continuously wet soil are slower growing, and probably less potent than
normal. They often develop stem rot. Allow the pots to go through a wet and
dry cycle. This will add in nutrient uptake, especially on potassium, and
aerate the soil. In general, when the soil one inch deep is dry to touch,
water it enough so that the soil is saturated but not so much that water runs
out of the drainage holes, carrying away the soils valuable nutrients.
Self-watering plant pots are fine for keeping the plants alive while you go
off on holiday, but try not to use them in their intended role of keeping the
soil continuously moist.
If you underwater your plants, they will wilt. Plant cells are kept rigid by
the pressure of the cell contents (mostly water). With the water gone, they
collapse. First the bottom leaves droop, and the condition works itself up the
plant until the top lops over. If a plant wilts, water it immediately, and it
will recover within a few minutes. This happens so fast you can actually
follow the movement of the water as it goes up the plant.
There is no way we can tell you exactly how often to water your garden. Light,
temperature, humidity and the size of the plants and pots are only a few of
many variables that determine the water uptake.
Try to reach a median. Don't keep the pots constantly moist, and don't wait
until the plant dries out and keels over. Use some common sense, we have found
it in some members of the community. A six-foot plant in a four-inch pot will
have to be saturated almost every day. Large containers (10" width or more)
should not be watered to saturation, especially if the plants are small. They
will not dry out quickly enough and will encourage mould. Clay pots are porous
and "breath". They require more water than plastic or metal pots.
Don't disturb the roots when you water. Water around the stems, not on them.
Seedlings are likely to fall over if watered roughly. Use a hand sprinkler
with a fine spray for seedlings. When set on a coarse jet, these sprays are
invaluable for discouraging cats from sniffing the seedlings.
Use tepid water, it soaks into the soil more easily and will not shock the
roots. Try to water during the plants morning hours. Water from the top of the
pot. Refill the watering container then, and leave it ready for next time. Not
only will it all be ready, but the water will be at room temperature, and most
of the chlorine will have evaporated (see later).
Water from the top of the pot. If you insist on watering from the bottom with
trays, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in the trays to ensure drainage.
Don't let the pots sit in the water until the soil becomes super-saturated.
This prevents oxygen uptake and the plants will grow poorly.
The tap water in some areas is acidic (sulphurous) or alkaline (limestone) and
can change the soil pH. If you are in such an area, check the pH every week or
so.
Tap water in some locales is highly chlorinated. The chlorine does not harm
the plants, but it can kill the micro-organisms in the soil that are necessary
to break down nutrients to a form that the plants can use. Allowing
chlorinated water to stand overnight will eliminate most of the chlorine gas
and it can then be used safely.

How To Prepare Soil For Plants

Soil Preparation
Marijuana grows best in a well-drained sandy soil or loam which is high in
nitrogen and potash, at least medium in phosphorous, and which contains little
or no clay. The pH should be between slightly acidic (6.5) and slightly
alkaline (7.5). If the pH is either too low or too high it will interfere with
nutrient uptake. The pH is measured on a scale of 0 to 14 with 7.0 assigned as
neutral. pH is a measure of the relative concentrations of hydroxonium ions
(H3O+) to hydroxide ions (OH2-). Several varieties of test kits and meters can
be purchased from garden stores which test the pH and nutrient contents of the
soil. Litmus paper (purple or blue) can be obtained from some chemists. Many
agricultural schools or colleges will test soil pH and nutrient contents for a
nominal fee.
Soil pH is raised to an acceptable level by adding slaked (hydrated) lime,
limestone and marl. There is no set formula we can give for raising the pH. At
a low pH it takes less time to raise the level by one point than it does when
the pH is nearer to neutral (7.0). Sandy soils require less lime than clay
soils to raise the pH. In general, if the soil tests acid, add 2 cups of
hydrated lime for each 50 lb bag of soil. On a more modest scale, this works
out at roughly one tablespoon for every 1 1/2 lbs of soil. Wet the soil
thoroughly after mixing. Re-test the soil in about 2 weeks, and repeat the
application until the pH is in an acceptable range. Soil that is too alkaline
is treated in the same way, but with aluminium sulphate at a rate of 1/2 cup
per 50 lbs of soil.
If you are digging up your soil, sift it well to remove stones and root clods.
Bake the soil in a 200 degree centigrade oven for twenty minutes in one-inch
layers, in a pressure cooker at 15 lbs/sq in pressure, or in a microwave on
full for ten minutes (make doubley sure there are no foreign particles in it).
This will destroy any weed seeds, insect eggs and disease organisms in the
soil.
It is, much, much, simpler to buy commercially prepared soils. These are
usually sterilised (but if the bag has been opened or holed, sterilize again
anyway) and have a good balance of nutrients. Ask for soil with a neutral pH.
Some nursery-men (and women) will sell you anything, so check the pH anyway
and reject any soil for "lime-hating" plants.
We have had good results from some brands using composted seaweed as an
ingredient.
The consistency and structure of the soil is important for healthy root
development, drainage and uniform water dispersion. The medium should not cake
when dry (this rules out John Innes No. 3) and should remain spongy or loose
when wet. Test the consistency,and adjust it if necessary.
To test the consistency of the soil, lightly moisten some and squeeze it in
your fist. The ball should crumble easily when touched. Soil consistency can
be adjusted by adding perlite, vermiculite, sand or kitty litter.
Perlite and vermiculite are inexpensive commercial products which are much
lighter than sand and are sterile. Vermiculite absorbs and holds water and air
in its fibre. Perlite traps moisture and air on its irregular surface much
like sand. Sphagnum or peat moss is often used to adjust soils, but should not
be used for marijuana as it tends to make the mix acidic. If you have alkaline
soil to start with though, you might get away with it.
Soils found deficient in nutrient content can be enriched by adding humus
(decayed organic matter) or fertilizers such as rose food, liquinure etc.
Humus is acidic and can alter the pH.
Soil-less mixtures are inexpensive and easy to prepare. They work well, are
neutral in pH and light in weight, but have absolutely no nutrient content.
They must be carefully fertilized and are not recommended for an inexperienced
grower. It is all too easy to over- or under-fertilize the plants.
Two tested formulas are:
1) One part perlite or sand to one part vermiculite and 1 tbsp of lime per
quart of mixture.
2) One part perlite or sand to one part Jiffy Mix and 1 tbsp of lime per quart
of mixture.
You can mix three parts of the soil-less mixture to one part cow manure, or
rely solely on soluble fertilizers when watering.
Simple Guidelines
Some of you who are not familiar with gardening may be a little over-whelmed
by all this talk of pH, nitrogen etc... so here is a simple uncomplicated
formula for those of you with no experience with plants:
Buy commercial soil. Avoid brands that have peat in their names, and not just
because peat is an over-exploited resource. It is very unlikely that a
commercial soil will be too alkaline for healthy growth, but it may well be
too acidic. The simplest way to assure yourself your soil is not too acidic,is
to put a piece of damp blue litmus paper (blue litmus is available from some
chemists and garden centres) under the surface of the soil. Wait a few minutes
and then take it out. It will not harm the soil - litmus comes from a lichen.
If the paper turns pink, the soil is acidic and lime must be added. Mix two
cups of slaked (hydrated) lime, from your garden store, to each 50 lbs of
soil. Don't add lime if the paper remains blue. If you find yourself asking
"is this paper pink, purple or just wet ?", then the soil is probably slightly
acidic and within an acceptable range for healthy growth.
Mix 10 lbs of natural, sterilized fertilizer (usually based on cow manure or
chickenshit) to each 50 lbs of soil. If you have some aversion to muck, or
don't like the smell (well rotted manure doesn't smell, by the way) then you
can use a soluble fertilizer when watering. We use a brand called
'phostrogen', which seems to work well. By volume, also mix in one part of
sand, perlite or vermiculite for every three parts of your soil. This helps
maintain the right soil texture for healthy root growth.
After potting and watering, the mixture should be re-tested in about a
fortnight if it tested acidic to begin with.
If it is still acidic, add hydrated lime by mixing one tbsp of lime per quart
of water, the first few times you water. Test your water supply by dipping a
piece of litmus in plain water to determine if it is influencing your tests.
To pot any of the mixtures, cover the drainage holes with a square of
newspaper or window screen to prevent soil from running out. Next, put in a
layer of sand, perlite, vermiculite or kitty litter about one inch deep to
ensure good drainage. Fill the pots to within 3/4 inch from the top of the pot
with the soil mixture. Water the pots until the soil is evenly moist, and
allow the pots to stand for a day or two so that bacteria necessary for
nutrient uptake can begin to grow and the fertilizers can start to dissolve
into the soil.

INDOOR CULTIVATION

INDOOR CULTIVATION
The Indoor Garden
Under artificial light, marijuana grows very fast; about 3-6 feet in three
months. As you want the lights fairly close to the plants, you must arrange
the lights so that their height can be altered. Hang the fixtures by a rope or
chain from the walls or ceiling, or from the top of a frame at least 6 feet
high, constructed of 2" X 2"s. The bar for hanging clothes on in a wardrobe
works quite well if it is high enough. Try to obtain an industrial type light
fixture with a built-in reflector, so that no light is lost. If your fixtures
are not equipped with reflectors, mount them on a sheet of white painted
plywood, make a reflector from white posterboard, or (at a pinch) sheets of
white cartridge paper. Don't use aluminium foil (see later).
Ten watts of tube power for each square foot of growing area is adequate for
healthy growth, but for a fast growing, lush crop, use at least 20 watts per
square foot. The size and shape of your garden should correspond to the light
system, so if the garden is 1 X 4 feet, use 2 four-foot tubes (80 watts). If
the garden is 8 X 2 feet, use 4 eight-foot tubes. One eight -foot tube emits
more light than 2 four-foot tubes, so try to use as few tubes as possible.
Marijuana can absorb up to 80 watts per square foot. Increasing the amount of
light will increase the growth rate, and the quality of your plants.
The garden should be surrounded by reflective surfaces to contain all of the
light. This will increase the efficiency of the lighting significantly and the
light will be nearly uniform throughout out the garden until the fixtures are
more than 2 feet high. A flat white paint is a better reflecting surface that
aluminium foil or glossy white paint. Flat white has about the same reflecting
capacity as aluminium foil, but reflects the light more uniformly. Paint walls
flat white, and hang posterboard, white plastic curtain, thick white paper
etc. on any open sides from the top of the fixture or frame. Sticking white
card over the inside of your wardrobe is fine if you can find the white card
for free. If your reflectors are the only enclosure for your plants, make them
waterproof, and they will insure a healthy humidity by containing moisture
evaporating from the soil and transpired by the plants.
Don't rely on training pets to stay out of the garden. Cats know damn well
what the stuff is, and they may chew the leaves or consume the best parts of
several plants. Dogs aren't much better either. Scratching in soil is in and
animals' nature. After all, look at all that time you spent teaching Tibbles
to use the litter tray. One moment of weakness can destroy months of work (see
"cuttings" in case of dire emergency). If the garden is accessible to pets,
surround it with chicken wire or heavy plastic. Ironmongers sell plastic on
rolls, and inexpensive plastic dropcloths. Cover the floor with plastic too.
It will protect your floor (and, if you're in a flat, your neighbours ceiling)
from possible water damage. The last thing you want is the council sniffing
around for leaks !
Artificial Light
The most effective and efficient artificial light for plant growth is
fluorescent light. There now follows a (very) brief physics lesson: The white
light you see emitted by a fluorescent bulb consists of all the colours of the
spectrum. The designation - Daylight, Warm White, Gro-lux, Optima, etc. - give
a heavy clue to what particular combination of bits of the spectrum each bulb
generates. Plants respond primarily to red and blue light, and for healthy
growth, a combination of these two colours must be provided. Blue light
stimulates leaf growth, produces short, stocky stems, and encourages robust
development. Red light is used for stem and root growth, and to promote
flowering.
The best fluorescent tubes are those that are specifically manufactured to
give out light useful to plants, and have a distinct purple hue. Some of these
are the Standard Gro-lux, Wide Spectrum Gro-lux, and plant Gro.
Sizes suitable for growing marijuana are 4,6, and 8 feet long. Regular
wattages for all of these tubes are about 10 watts for each foot of their
length (80 watts for an eight-foot tube). They also come in higher wattage
sizes. These are Power Twists, High Output (HO) and Very High Output (VHO)
tubes, the largest being a 215 watt, eight-foot tube. These high output tubes
are not always available, and tend to come a little on the expensive side. You
only really need to use them in an exceptionally large garden.
Regular fluorescent tubes can be used if you can't get Gro-tubes. They don't
work quite as well, but they will grow a perfectly healthy crop, and usually
work out more than a little cheaper. Daylight, or Cool White tubes can be used
in conjunction with either Natural White or traditional (plug-in) bulbs.
Normal bulbs and Natural White both provide the red component of light, while
the others tend towards the blue end. Use them in a one to one ratio, evenly
distributing the red and blue sources. Compared to the fluorescent tube, the
traditional lightbulb is about one third as efficient, has a much shorter
life, and can cause problems with it's excess heat. Not only might it scorch
your plants, it could set the whole house up if you haven't supported the
lights properly. But think what a wonderful time the fire-brigade would have
....

How to Choose Pots And Containers For Plants

Pots and Containers
Plants can be started in flower pots, milk crates, institutional size tin
cans, polystyrene packaging, plastic jugs, or practically any container that
is waterproof, at least 4" wide, and doesn't mind having a few holes punched
in the bottom of it for drainage. Grow-bags are suitable, but will need holes
punched in the bottom for drainage, and will probably need their pH checked.
A single large box has the advantage of giving more room for the roots to
spread out, but requires a lot more soil and makes moving, lighting and
rotating the plants impractical.
In it's natural state, marijuana sends down a tap root up to half the length
of the plant. Apart from the fact that there aren't many three-foot deep plant
pots about, trying to simulate natural conditions would be impractical in
terms of weight, space, cost and labour.
The purpose of the soil (not necessarily ordinary dirt) is to provide water
and nutrients, and to anchor the plant down. With strict attention to proper
watering and fertilizing techniques, a six-foot plant can be grown in a
four-inch pot. The plant will, however, grow much better in a series of
successively larger pots - six to ten inch pots are a good median size, and
aren't too heavy to move around when necessary.
Use as many pots as you can fit under the lighting system. The pots can always
be thinned out if the plants become too crowded. Choose pots that are at least
as wide at the top as the bottom, so that the soil can breath and dry out more
easily.
Wash all cans, crates and pots etc thoroughly to remove any contaminants and/
or insects. Boil clay pots for ten minutes to sterilize them. Some plastic,
and most clay, utensils can be dampened and put in a microwave for ten minutes
instead.

Beginner’s Guide to Growing Marijuana

Beginner’s Guide to Growing Marijuana
This is a guide that I pulled off the net that puts everything in plain and simple English, and doesn’t go to deep into
advanced botany and gardening. I find this one to be the best guide out there.
Indoor Marijuana Cultivation
Introduction
Growing marijuana indoors is fast becoming an American Pastime. The reasons are varied. With the increased
interest and experimentation in houseplant cultivation, it was inevitable that people would apply their knowledge of
plant care to growing marijuana. Many of those who occasionally like to light up a joint may find it difficult to
locate a source or are hesitant to deal with a perhaps unsavory element of society in procuring their grass. There is,
of course, the criminal aspect of buying or selling grass; Growing marijuana is just as illegal as buying, selling, or
smoking it, but growing is something you can do in the privacy of your own home without having to deal with
someone you don’t know or trust. The best reason for growing your own is the enjoyment you will get out of
watching those tiny little seeds you picked out of you stash sprout and become some of the most lovely and lush of
all house plants.
Anyone Can Do It
Even if you haven’t had any prior experience with growing plants in you home, you can have a successful crop of
marijuana by following the simple directions in this pamphlet. If you have had problems in the past with marijuana
cultivation, you may find the solutions in the following chapters. Growing a marijuana plant involves four basic
steps:
1. Get the seeds. If you don’t already have some, you can ask your friends to save you seeds out of any good grass
they may come across. You’ll find that lots of people already have a seed collection of some sort and are willing
to part with a few prime seeds in exchange for some of the finished product.
2. Germinate the seeds. You can simply drop a seed into moist soil, but by germinating the seeds first you can be
sure that the seed will indeed produce a plant. To germinate seeds, place a group of them between about six
moist paper towels, or in the pores of a moist sponge. Leave the towels or sponge moist but not soaking wet.
Some seeds will germinate in 24 hours while others may take several days or even a week.
3. Plant the sprouts. As soon as the seed cracks open and begin to sprout, place it on some moist soil and sprinkle a
little soil over the top of it.
4. Supply the plants with light. Fluorescent lights are the best. Hang the lights with two inches of the soil and after
the plants appear above the ground, continue to keep the lights with two inches of the plants. It is as easy as
that. If you follow those four steps you will grow a marijuana plant. To ensure prime quality and the highest
yield in the shortest time period, however, a few details are necessary.
Soil
Your prime concern, after choosing high quality seeds, is the soil. Use the best soil you can get. Scrimping on
the soil doesn’t pay off in the long run. If you use non-sterilized soil you will almost certainly find parasites in it,
probably after it is too late to transplant your marijuana. You can find excellent soil for sale at your local plant shop
or nursery, K-Mart, Wal-Mart, and even some grocery stores. The soil you use should have these properties for the
best possible results:
1. It should drain well. That is, it should have some sand in it and also some sponge rock or pearlite.
2. The pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5 since marijuana does not do well in acidic soil. High acidity in soil
encourages the plant to be predominantly male, an undesirable trait.
3. The soil should also contain humus for retaining moisture and nutrients.
If you want to make your own soil mixture, you can use this recipe: Mix two parts moss with one part sand and one
part pearlite or sponge rock to each four gallons of soil. Test your soil for pH with litmus paper or with a soil testing
kit available at most plant stores. To raise the pH of the soil, add ½ lb. lime to 1 cubic foot of soil to raise the pH one
point. If you absolutely insist on using dirt you dug up from your driveway, you must sterilize it by baking it in your
oven for about an hour at 250 degrees. Be sure to moisten it thoroughly first and also prepare yourself for a rapid
evacuation of your kitchen because that hot soil is going to stink. Now add to the mixture about one tablespoon of
fertilizer (like Rapid-Gro) per gallon of soil and blend it in thoroughly. Better yet, just skip the whole process and
spend a couple bucks on some soil.
Containers
After you have prepared your soil, you will have to come up with some kind of container to plant in. The container
should be sterilized as well, especially if they have been used previously for growing other plants. The size of the
container has a great deal to do with the rate of growth and overall size of the plant. You should plan on
transplanting your plant not more than one time, since the process of transplanting can be a shock to the plant and it
will have to undergo a recovery period in which growth is slowed or even stopped for a short while. The first
container you use should be no larger than six inches in diameter and can be made of clay or plastic. To transplant,
simply prepare the larger pot by filling it with soil and scooping out a little hole about the size of the smaller pot that
the plant is in. Turn the plant upside down, pot and all, and tap the rim of the pot sharply on a counter or the edge of
the sink. The soil and root ball should come out of the pot cleanly with the soil retaining the shape of the pot and
with no disturbances to the root ball. Another method that can bypass the transplanting problem is using a Jiffy-Pot.
Jiffy pots are made of compressed peat moss and can be planted right into moist soil where they decompose and
allow the passage of the root system through their walls. The second container should have a volume of at least three
gallons. Marijuana doesn’t like to have its roots bound or cramped for space, so always be sure that the container
you use will be deep enough for your plant’s root system. It is very difficult to transplant a five-foot marijuana tree,
so plan ahead. It is going to get bigger. The small plants should be ready to transplant into their permanent homes in
about two weeks. Keep a close watch on them after the first week or so and avoid root binding at all costs since the
plants never seem to do as well once they have been stunted by the cramping of their roots.
Fertilizer
Marijuana likes lots of food, but you can do damage to the plants if you are too zealous. Some fertilizers can burn a
plant and damage its roots if used in to high a concentration. Most commercial soil will have enough nutrients in it
to sustain the plant for about three weeks of growth so you don’t need to worry about feeding your plant until the
end of the third week. The most important thing to remember is to introduce the fertilizer concentration to the plant
gradually. Start with a fairly diluted fertilizer solution and gradually increase the dosage. There are several good
marijuana fertilizers on the commercial market, two of which are Rapid-Gro and Eco-Grow. Rapid-Gro has had
widespread use in marijuana cultivation and is available in most parts of the United States. Eco-Grow is also
especially good for marijuana since it contains an ingredient that keeps the soil from becoming acid. Most fertilizers
cause a pH change in the soil. Adding fertilizer to the soil almost always results in a more acidic pH.
As time goes on, the amount of salts produced by the breakdown of fertilizers in the soil causes the soil to become
increasingly acidic and eventually the concentration of these salts in the soil will stunt the plant and cause browning
out of the foliage. Also, as the plant gets older its roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To
avoid the accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that your plant is getting all of the food it needs you
can begin leaf feeding your plant at the age of about 1.5 months. Dissolve the fertilizer in worm water and spray the
mixture directly onto the foliage. The leaves absorb the fertilizer into their veins. If you want to continue to put
fertilizer into the soil as well as leaf feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants.
Remember to increase the amount of food your plant receives gradually. Marijuana seems to be able to take as much
fertilizer as you want to give it as long as it is introduced over a period of time. During the first three months or so,
fertilize your plants every few days. As the rate of foliage growth slows down in the plant’s preparation for
blooming and seed production, the fertilizer intake of the plant should be slowed down as well. Never fertilize the
plant just before you are going to harvest it since the fertilizer will encourage foliage production and slow down
resin production. A word here about the most organic of fertilizers: worm castings. As you may know, worms are
raised commercially for sale to gardeners. The breeders put the worms in organic compost mixtures and while the
worms are reproducing they eat the organic matter and expel some of the best marijuana food around. After the
worms have eaten all the organic matter in the compost, they are removed and sold and the remains are then sold as
worm castings. These castings are so rich that you can grow marijuana in straight worm castings. This isn’t really
necessary however, and it is somewhat impractical since the castings are very expensive. If you can afford them you
can, however, blend them in with your soil and they will make a very
good organic fertilizer.
Light
Without light, the plants cannot grow. In the countries in which marijuana grows best, the sun is the source of light.
The amount of light and the length of the growing season in these countries result in huge tree-like plants. In most
parts of North America, however, the sun is not generally intense enough for long enough periods of time to produce
the same size and quality of plants that grow with ease in Latin America and other tropical countries. The answer to
the problem of lack of sun, especially in the winter months, shortness of the growing season and other problems is to
grow indoors under simulated conditions. The rule of thumb seems to be the more light, the better. In one
experiment we know of, eight eight-foot VHO Gro-Lux fixtures were used over eight plants. The plants grew at an
astonishing rate. The lights had to be raised every day. There are many types of artificial light and all of them do
different things to your plants. The common incandescent light bulb emits some of the frequencies of light the plant
can use, but it also emits a high percentage of far-red and infrared light, which cause the plant to concentrate its
growth on the stem. This results in the plant stretching toward the light bulb until it becomes so tall and spindly that
it just weakly topples over. There are several brands of bulb type. One is the incandescent plant spotlight, which
emits higher amounts of red and blue light than the common light bulb. It is an improvement, but has it drawbacks.
it is hot, for example, and cannot be placed close to the plants. Consequently, the plant has to stretch upwards again
and is in danger of becoming elongated and falling over. The red bands of light seem to encourage stem growth,
which is not desirable in growing marijuana. The idea is to encourage foliage growth for obvious reasons. Gro-Lux
lights are probably the most common fluorescent plant lights. In our experience with them, they have proven
themselves to be extremely effective. They range in size from one to eight feet in length so you can set up a growing
room in a closet or a warehouse. There are two types of Gro-Lux lights: The standard and the wide spectrum. They
can be used in conjunction with on another, but the wide spectrum lights are not sufficient on their own. The wide
spectrum lights were designed as a supplementary light source and are cheaper than the standard lights. Wide
spectrum lights emit the same bands of light as the standard but the standard emits higher concentrations of red and
blue bands that the plants need to grow. The wide spectrum lights also emit infrared, the effect of which on stem
growth we have already discussed. If you are planning to grow on a large scale, you might be interested to know that
the regular fluorescent lamps and fixtures, the type that are used in commercial lighting, work well when used along
with standard Gro-Lux lights. These commercial lights are called cool whites, and are the cheapest of the fluorescent
lights we have mentioned. They emit as much blue light as the Gro-Lux standards and the blue light is what the
plants use in foliage growth.
Now we come to the question of intensity. Both the standard and wide spectrum lamps come in three intensities:
regular output, high output, and very high output. You can grow a nice crop of plants under the regular output lamps
and probably be quite satisfied with our results. The difference in using the HO or VHO lamps is the time it takes to
grow a crop. Under a VHO lamp, the plants grow at a rate that is about three times the rate at which they grow under
the standard lamps. People have been known to get a plant that is four feet tall in two months under one of these
lights. Under the VHO lights, one may have to raise the lights every day, which means a growth rate of at least two
inches a day. The only drawback is the expense of the VHO lamps and fixtures. The VHO lamps and fixtures are
almost twice the price of the standard. If you are interested in our opinion, they are well worth it. Now that you have
your lights up, you might be curious about the amount of light to give you plants per day. The maturation date of
your plants is dependent on how much light they receive per day. The longer the dark period per day, the sooner the
plant will bloom. Generally speaking, the less dark per day the better during the first six months of the plant’s life.
The older the plant is before it blooms and goes to seed, the better the grass will be. After the plant is allowed to
bloom, its metabolic rate is slowed so that the plant’s quality does not increase with the age at the same rate it did
before it bloomed. The idea, then, is to let the plant get as old as possible before allowing it to mature so that the
potency will be a high as possible at the time of harvest. One relatively sure way to keep your plants from blooming
until you are ready for them is to leave the lights on all the time. Occasionally a plant will go ahead and bloom
anyway, but it is the exception rather than the rule. If your plants receive 12 hours of light per day they will probably
mature in 2 to 2.5 months. If they get 16 hours of light per day they will probably be blooming in 3.5 to 4 months.
With 18 hours of light per day, they will flower in 4.5 to 5 months. It’s a good idea to put your lights on a timer to
ensure that the amount of light received each day remains constant. A “vacation” timer, normally used to make it
look like you are home while you are away, works nicely and can be found at most hardware or discount stores.
Energy Emissions in Arbitrary Color Bands
40 Watt Fluorescent Lamps in Watts and Percent of Total Emissions
Light Type, Band Daylight, Watts(%),Cool White Watt(%),Gro-Lux Watt %,Gro-Lux WS
Watt %
Ultra-Violet ,-380,0.186,2.15,0.16,1.68,0.10,1.42,0.27,3.16
Violet 380-430 ,0.832 ,9.60,0.72 ,7.57 ,0.70 ,9.67 ,1.07 ,12.48
Blue 430-490,2.418, 27.91, 1.98, 20.78, 1.96, 27.07, 1.22, 14.29
Green 490-560 ,2.372 ,27.38 ,2.35 ,24.67 ,1.02 ,14.02 ,1.24 ,14.49
Yellow 560-590,1.259, 14.53, 1.74, 18.27, 0.10, 1.42, 0.83, 9.77
Orange 590-630 ,1.144 ,13.21 ,1.69 ,17.75 ,0.44 ,6.05 ,1.36 ,15.93
Red 630-700 ,0.452 ,6.22 ,0.81 ,8.47, 2.86, 39.55, 1.86 ,21.78
Far Red 700-780 ,0.130 ,1.53 ,0.07 ,0.81 ,0.06 ,0.80 ,0.69 ,8.10
Total 8.890, 100.0, 9.52, 100.0, 7.24, 100.0, 8.54 ,100.0
Temperature and Humidity
The ideal temperature for the light hours is 68 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit and for the dark hours there should be about
a 15-degree drop in temperature. The growing room should be relatively dry if possible. What you want is a resinous
coating on the leaves and to get the plant to do this, you must convince it that it needs the resinous coating on its
leaves to protect itself from drying out. In an extremely humid room, the plants develop wide leaves and do not
produce as much resin. You must take care not to let the temperature in a dry room become too hot, however, since
the plant cannot assimilate water fast enough through its roots and its foliage will begin to brown out.
Ventilation
Proper ventilation in your growing room is fairly important. The more plants you have in one room, the more
important good ventilation becomes. Plants breathe through their leaves. The also rid themselves of poisons through
their leaves. If proper ventilation is not maintained, the pores of the leaves will become clogged and the leaves will
die. If there is a free movement of air, the poisons can evaporate off the leaves and the plant can breathe and remain
healthy.
In a small closet where there are only a few plants you can probably create enough air circulation just by opening the
door to look at them. Although it is possible to grow healthy looking plants in poorly ventilated rooms, they would
be larger and healthier if they had a fresh supply of air coming in. If you spend a lot of time in your growing room,
your plants will grow better because they will be using the carbon dioxide that you are exhaling around them. It is
sometimes quite difficult to get a fresh supply of air in to your growing room because your room is usually hidden
away in a secret corner of your house, possibly in the attic or basement. In this case, a fan will create some
movement of air. It will also stimulate your plants into growing a healthier and sturdier stalk. Often times in an
indoor environment, the stems of plants fail to become rigid because they don’t have to cope with elements of wind
and rain. To a degree, though, this is an advantage because the plant puts most of its energy into producing leaves
and resin instead of stems.
Dehumidifying Your Growing Room
Cannabis that grows in a hot, dry climate will have narrower leaves than cannabis grown in a humid atmosphere.
The reason is that in a dry atmosphere the plants can respire easier because the moisture on the leaves evaporates
faster. In a humid atmosphere, the moisture cannot evaporate as fast. Consequently, the leaves have to be broader
with more surface area in order to expel the wastes that the plant put out. Since the broad leaves produce less resin
per leaf than the narrow there will be more resin in an ounce of narrow leaves than in one ounce of broad leaves.
There may be more leaf mass in the broader leafed plants, but most people are growing their own for quality rather
than quantity.
Since the resin in the marijuana plant serves the purpose of keeping the leaves from drying out, there is more apt to
be a lot of resin produced in a dry room than in a humid one. In the Sears catalog, dehumidifiers cost around
$100.00 and are therefore a bit impractical for the “hobby grower.”
Watering
If you live near a clear mountain stream, you can skip this bit on the quality of water. Most of us are supplied water
by the city and some cities add more chemicals to the water than others . They all add chlorine, however, in varying
quantities. Humans over the years have learned to either get rid of it somehow or to live with it, but your marijuana
plants won’t have time to acquire a taste for it so you had better see that they don’t have to. Chlorine will evaporate
if you let the water stand for 24 hours in an open container. Letting the water stand for a day or two will serve a dual
purpose: The water will come to room temperature during that period of time and you can avoid the nasty shock
your plants suffer when you drench them with cold water. Always water with room temperature to lukewarm water.
If your water has an excessive amount of chlorine in it, you may want to get some anti- chlorine drops at the local
fish or pet store. The most important thing about watering is to do it thoroughly. You can water a plant in a threegallon
container with as much as three quarts of water. The idea is to get the soil evenly moist all the way to the
bottom of the pot. If you use a little water, even if you do it often, it seeps just a short way down into the soil and
any roots below the moist soil will start to turn upwards toward the water. The second most important thing about
watering is to see to it that the pot has good drainage. There should be some holes in the bottom so that any excess
water will run out. If the pot won’t drain, the excess water will accumulate in a pocket and rot the roots of the plant
or simply make the soil sour or mildew. The soil, as we said earlier, must allow the water to drain evenly through it
and must not become hard or packed. If you have made sure that the soil contains sand and pearlite, you shouldn’t
have drainage problems. To discover when to water, feel the soil with your finger. if you feel moisture in the soil,
you can wait a day or two to water. The soil near the top of the pot is always drier than the soil further down. You
can drown your plant just as easily as you can let it get too dry and it is more likely to survive a dry spell than it is to
survive a torrential flood. Water the plants well when you water and don’t water them at all when they don’t need it.
Bugs
If you can avoid getting bugs in the first place you will be much better off. Once your plants become infested you
will probably be fighting bugs for the rest of your plants’ lives. To avoid bugs, be sure to use sterilized soil and
containers and don’t bring other plants from outside into your growing room. If you have bets, ensure that they stay
out of your growing room, since they can bring in pests on their fur. Examine your plants regularly for signs of
insects, spots, holes in the leaves, browning of the tips of the leaves, and droopy branches. If you find that somehow
in spite of all your precautions you have a plant room full of bugs, you’ll have to spray your plants with some kind
of insecticide. You’ll want to use something that will kill the bugs and not you. Spider mites are probably the bug
that will do the most damage to the marijuana plants. One of the reasons is that they are almost microscopic and
very hard to spot. They are called spider mites because they leave a web-like substance clinging to the leaves. They
also cause tiny little spots to appear on the leaves. Probably the first thing you’ll notice, however, is that your plants
look sick and depressed. The mites suck enzymes from the leaves and as a result the leaves lose some of their green
color and glossiness. Sometimes the leaves look like they have some kid of fungus on them. The eggs are very tiny
black dots. You might be wise to get a magnifying glass so that you can really scrutinize your plants closely. Be sure
to examine the underside of the leaves too. The mites will often be found clinging to the underside as well as the top
of the leaves. The sooner you start fighting the bugs, the easier it will be to get rid of them. For killing spider mites
on marijuana, one of the best insecticides if “Fruit and Berry” spray made by Llers. Ortho also produces several
insecticides that will kill mites. The ingredients to look for are Kelthane and Malatheon. Both of these poisons are
lethal to humans and pets as well as bugs, but they both detoxify in about ten days so you can safely smoke the grass
ten days after spraying. Fruit and Berry will only kill the adult mite, however, and you’ll have to spray every four
days for about two weeks to be sure that you have killed all the adults before they have had a chance to lay eggs.
Keep a close watch on your plants because it only takes one egg laying adult to re- infest your plants and chances
are that one or two will escape your barrage of insecticides. If you see little bugs flying around your plants, they are
probably white flies. The adults are immune to almost all the commercial insecticides except Fruit and Berry, which
will not kill the eggs or larva. It is the larval stage of this insect that does the most damage. They suck out enzymes
too, and kill your plants if they go unchecked. You will have to get on a spraying program just as was explained in
the spider mite section.
An organic method of bug control is using soapsuds. Put Ivory flakes in some lukewarm water and work up the suds
into lather. Then put the suds over the plant. The obvious disadvantage is it you don’t rinse the soap off the plant
you’ll taste the soap when you smoke the leaves.
Pruning
We have found that pruning is not always necessary. The reason one does it in the first place is to encourage
secondary growth and to allow light to reach the immature leaves. Some strands of grass just naturally grow thick
and bushy and if they are not clipped the sap moves in an uninterrupted flow right to the top of the plant where it
produces flowers that are thick with resin. On the other hand, if your plants appear tall and spindly for their age at
three weeks, they probably require a little trimming to ensure a nice full leafy plant. At three weeks of age your plant
should have at least two sets of branches or four leaf clusters and a top. To prune the plant, simply slice the top off
just about the place where two branches oppose each other. Use a razor blade in a straight cut. If you want to, you
can root the top in some water and when the roots appear, plant the top in moist soil and it should grow into another
plant. If you are going to root the top you should cut the end again, this time with a diagonal cut so as to expose
more surface to the water or rooting solution. The advantage to taking cuttings from your plant is that it produces
more tops. The tops have the resin, and that’s the name of the game. Every time you cut off a top, the plant seeds out
two more top branches at the base of the existing branches. Pruning also encourages the branches underneath to
grow faster than they normally would without the top having been cut.
Harvesting and Curing
Well, now that you’ve grown your marijuana, you will want to cur it properly so that it smokes clean and won’t bite.
You can avoid that “homegrown” taste of chlorophyll that sometimes makes one’s fillings taste like they might be
dissolving. We know of several methods of curing the marijuana so that it will have a mild flavor and a mellow
rather than harsh smoke.
First, pull the plant up roots and all and hang it upside down for 24 hours. Then put each plant in a paper grocery
bag with the top open for three or four days or until the leaves feels dry to the touch. Now strip the leaves off the
stem and put them in a glass jar with a lid. Don’t pack the leaves in tightly, you want air to reach all the leaves. The
main danger in the curing process is mold. If the leaves are too damp when you put them into the jar, they will mold
and since the mold will destroy the resins, mold will ruin your marijuana. You should check the jars every day by
smelling them and if you smell an acrid aroma take the weed out of the jar and spread it out on newspaper so that it
can dry quickly. Another method is to uproot the plants and hang them upside down. You get some burlap bags
damp and slip them up over the plants. Keep the bags damp and leave them in the sun for at least a week. Now put
the plants in a paper bag for a few days until the weed is dry enough to smoke. Like many fine things in life,
marijuana mellows out with age. The aging process tends to remove the chlorophyll taste.
Editor’s Note and Important Warning:
This pamphlet was written about 8 years ago. While the facts, figures, and methods described here are still valid, an
important note must be added concerning the purchasing of equipment and supplies. The information age is upon us
and an increasing amount of data is being kept about all of us whether we realize it or not. With the war on drugs in
full effect, the D.E.A. is using this information at every possible opportunity. When you make a purchase with a
credit card, every last bit of information regarding that purchase is filed away into a database, both at the store and
with your credit card company. Not only the price, but the exact date, location, and items purchased are recorded
and stored away. Many stores and credit card companies routinely sell their databases of customers and transactions
to anybody who can afford it. The D.E.A can certainly afford it. After all, they’re using your tax dollars. The D.E.A.
as well as other government agencies DO purchase these databases for their own uses. They feed them into their
computers and the computers spit out a list of anybody with “suspicious” purchases. Any purchases that could be
associated with drug production, use, or selling could be flagged for further investigation. These “suspicious”
purchases include unusual chemicals, medical supplies such as syringes, lights and timers, and even potting soil and
fertilizer. The point is , if you are planning on purchasing supplies to grow marijuana don’t take any chances. While
the computers would probably never flag the average home grower, who is simply growing enough for his own use,
you never know. If you are purchasing equipment or supplies, PAY CASH! In addition, many supermarkets and
discount stores now have some sort of “Preferred Customer” cards. When you buy something, regardless of how you
pay, you give them your card to scan and all your purchases are recorded. They then send you some sort of coupon
depending on what and how much you purchased each month. It sounds like a good deal, but you wind up having all
of your purchases recorded and sold just like with the credit cards. DON’T use one of these cards when you are
purchasing anything that might be deemed suspicious. For that matter, don’t use them at all. They just result in a ton
of junk mail and a lot of people knowing exactly what you buy and when you buy it.

A GOOD STORY

A sardarji comes up to the Pakistan border on his bike. He's got two large bags over his shoulders.

The guard Iqbal stops him and says, 'What's in the bags?' 'Sand,' answered the Sardarji.Iqbal says, 'We'll just see about that. Get off the bike.

'Iqbal's guard takes the bags and rips them apart, he empties them out and finds nothing in them but sand. He detains the sardarji all night and has the sand analyzed, only to discover that there is nothing but pure sand in the bags. Iqbal releases the sardaji, puts the sand into new bags, heftsthem onto the sardarji's shoulders, and lets him cross the border.

A week later, the same thing happens. Iqbal asks, 'What have you got?''Sand,' says the Sardarji.

Iqbal does his thorough examination and discovers that the bags contain nothing but sand. He gives the sand back to the Sardar, and crosses the border on his bike. This sequence of events is repeated every day for three years.

Finally, the Sardarji doesn't show up one day and the guard, Iqbal, meets him in a 'Dhaba' in Islamabad.

'Hey, Buddy,' says Iqbal, 'I know you are smuggling something. It's driving me crazy. It's all I think about…I can't sleep.. Just between you and me, what are you smuggling?'

The Sardaji, sips his Lassi and says, 'Bikes'
THIS STORY SHOWS SARDARJI'S HAVE KILLER MIND

Why Wedding Ring is Worn Over 4th Finger

Why Wedding Ring is Worn Over 4th Finger


Why should the wedding ring be worn on the fourth finger?
There is a beautiful and convincing explanation given by the Chinese.



Thumb represents your -- Parents
Second (Index) finger represents your Siblings
Middle finger represents your Self
Fourth (Ring) finger represents your Life Partner
& Last (Little) finger represents your Children


Firstly, open your palms (face to face), bend the middle fingers and hold them together - back to back
Secondly, open and hold the remaining three fingers and the thumb - tip to tip
(As shown in the figure Above)
Now, try to Separate your Thumbs (representing the parents)..., they will open, because your parents are not destined to live with you lifelong (Sorry but its the Truth), and have to leave you sooner or later.
Please join your thumbs as before and separate your Index fingers (representing siblings)... ., they will also open, because your brothers and sisters will have their own families and will have to lead their own separate lives.
Now join the Index fingers and separate your Little fingers (representing your children)... ., they will open too, because the children also will get married and settle down on their own some day...
Finally, join your Little fingers, and try to separate your Ring fingers (representing your spouse).
You will be surprised to see that you just CAN NOT ..,
Coz Husband &Wife have to remain together all their lives - through thick and thin.. !!
ISN'T THIS A LOVELY THEORY.. ??

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As we know that the products are based on the powerful natural substance so it is good for the skin also we can say that it is good for our health. OXIS is developing and plans to sell Nutraceutical and Cosmecuetical products featuring natural ingredients believed to have beneficial effects on human health. OXIS’ first products will include L-Ergothioneine (ERGO) as a key component.ERGO is a very powerful, multifaceted antioxidant. The remarkable properties of ERGO are described in detail in the Ergothioneine section of this website. OXIS has patented the synthesis process for L-Ergothioneine and has outsourced product manufacturing to a company that can provide ERGO in commercial and GMP produced quantities to meet our product needs. OXIS’ consumer products strategy addresses very important health concerns including aging and age-related disorders that are increasing with trends in whole world. These concerns includes Brain health,Immunity against diseases,Anti-aging/skin health, Inflammation, Detoxification, Blood sugar regulation. As we can see these disease is something which is the main cause of abnormality in humans. We should not forget that which product is to choose to get the best satisfaction and best result.Our market entry and expansion strategy includes potential alliances with highly respected, credible and iconic thought leaders in each product category. Typically, these individuals or companies have established consumer followings or the ability to build meaningful and loyal customer bases.
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